Cabernet Franc: the forgotten grape

Vitis Vinifera', or Cabernet Franc, is the third (and sometimes forgotten) classic grape variety in Bordeaux, living in the shadow of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It is often apologised for and described as being a blending insurance policy against the later-flowering Cabernet Sauvignon in case it doesn't attain optimum ripeness.

Nothing could be further from the truth. Cabernet Franc is a unique and spectacular grape in its own right and a more senior grape than Cabernet Sauvignon - recent DNA testing has shown that Cabernet Sauvignon was the product of Sauvignon Blanc vine cuttings being grafted onto Cabernet Franc vines.

Cabernet Franc is a delicate, scented grape that produces deep red juice with flavours of strawberries and other berry fruits, and sometimes even a hint of tobacco. It is an ideal contrast to the masculinity of Cabernet Sauvignon and the richness of Merlot. It also grows well on a wide variety of 'terroir', from gravel to limestone.

Although originally a native of Bordeaux, Cabernet Franc has spread its wings far and wide. Cardinal Richelieu first realised its potential and instructed his monks to plant his 'favourite vines' in their Abbeys in the Loire Valley, and it remains to this day the predominate red grape variety in that area. Since then, Cabernet Franc has been planted in just about every wine-growing region in the world: the USA, Canada (where it is used to make 'ice-wine'), Kosovo, China and Australia, to name but a few.

For the most part, though, it is famous because it is the principal - and often sole - grape variety in Chateau Cheval Blanc, the world famous St Emillion 1st growth Claret whose 2008 wine opened on the 'en primeur' market for £3,500 a case.

In the Loire Valley, a good Chinon or St Nicholas de Bourgueil can be bought for around £10 a bottle, containing exactly the same juice as this illustrious Chateau Cheval Blanc. Do the Bordelaise really overprice their wine that much? Well, of course not. The yields from Cheval Blanc are tiny, the vineyards are tended with meticulous care and any grape that is not perfect is thrown away. As with anything, you get what you pay for. ·