Mexican magic

The mountain city of Oaxaca

LAST UPDATED AT 09:02 ON Thu 2 Oct 2008

Sited at an altitude of 5,000ft in Mexico's Sierra Madre del Sur mountains is the colonial city of Oaxaca, says Chris Moss in the Daily Telegraph.

It was founded in the 16th century, and today, its old centre – bursting with "grandiose churches, crumbling palaces and leafy patios and plazas"– is a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Tragically, the city became a battleground two years ago, when at least 18 people were killed in anti-government protests. But since then, Oaxaca has returned gradually to life, and the atmosphere is once again as "vibrant, colourful and convivial" as the buildings are elegant.

Indeed, to visitors, it can feel like "the perfect city". There's a thriving local arts scene, and in the evenings the streets throng with barrel organists, food vendors and clowns.

Audley Travel (01993 838 000) organises trips to Mexico City and Oaxaca. ·