Wine from moonshine

The really positive aspect about both biodynamic and organic vineyards is that they use minimal (if any) chemicals on their soil, vines and wines - which means, put very simply, that they taste much better and are much better for you. You could say that expensive wine is already pretty much organic because flavour is best when it is natural. Cheap wine, however, is normally the opposite of natural - pumped full of sulphur and other additives to disguise imperfections and add (artificial) flavour.

What are biodynamics? They come shrouded in mystery, with references to the moon and tides - all of which sounds a bit far fetched. Actually it's all very simple - there is a better time to do things and using the moon, gravity and tides for guidance helps optimise this. The modern biodynamic movement was started in the early 20th century by Rudolph Steiner, the eminent Austrian scholar. All he did was reiterate farming principles from the Middle Ages, when there were no chemicals, fertilizers or tractors - ergo, everything had to be done naturally, and they found out how to do it best. An example: nettle spray was all they had in the 15th century to keep away bees and is now used again.  It sort of makes sense.

Another example: a friend in St Emilion produces biodynamic wine at Chateau La Tour Figeac.  He showed me his soil under a microscope - it was teeming with life and micro-organisms. In the next door vineyards, which used herbicides every year, the soil was completely dead. Bio-dynamic producers do use some chemicals, but only where absolutely essential. (Pesticides are not necessary anywhere, but are of course the cheapest way of getting rid of weeds - and everything else in the soil.)

Organic wines have no chemicals in them. Though admirable, this can make the wine highly unstable and sometimes undrinkable. Chemicals used in moderation are actually fine - indeed, essential in most wineries and in most climates. Organic wine making techniques have, however, improved enormously, and organic is no longer the 'drinker's risk' it was. The best taste wonderfully natural with all the trace mineral elements coming through.

The other big plus is that these wines are far less likely to give you a hangover! ·