Syrian sybarites

Syria is known for its deserts and ancient ruins, says Matthew Teller in the Observer, but as this "much misunderstood country" opens up to outsiders after "decades in the cold", other ways to explore it are emerging.

Food-lovers, for instance, can learn about Syria's culinary history on a tour led by the chef Anissa Helou. An "indulgent week of near-continuous snacking" includes an exploration of the souks, which sell everything from fragrant herbs to boiled sweets, and meals in "a succession of fabulous restaurants".

One of the best is al-Khawali, housed in a 14th-century palace in Damascus, with carved wooden doors and floors of patterned marble. In a glorious internal courtyard, diners feast on meze, tender grilled lamb, and cheese dusted with pepper and thyme – food that is as "sophisticated and charming" as the surroundings.

Anissa Helou's culinary tours cost around £1,500. ·