Not just any Port in a storm

The Factory House in Oporto is the predominantly English Port Shippers' Gentleman's Club. Members and guests meet every Wednesday for lunch in this splendidly Dickensian building - the ballroom chandeliers still hold candles rather than light bulbs (no Health & Safety here). Lunch is served in a magnificent dining room by ancient club servants - the food is not great, nor the wine (usually Vino Verde). Lunch takes about 10 minutes after which double doors are opened to reveal an identical dining room and a table with about six decanters of vintage port on it. Now the serious work starts...

The Port trade was started by the British in the late 18th century, and the famous names give it away – Taylor, Dow, Croft, Graham, Cockburn, Warre etc. They are still largely under British control. The only new shipper to start in the 20th century was Churchill, which was founded in 1981 by Johnny Graham, a highly gifted port 'blender'.

Port is made by putting partly fermented grape juice into barrels filled a quarter full with brandy (normally the cheapest available). Ruby port is the 'entry level' port, having been aged only for a short time; it's often referred to as Hunting Port. Then follow Tawny, Crusted, Vintage Character and Late Bottled, all of which are excellent if well made. At the top comes Vintage Port which is only made in the best years. It is rich, full, concentrated and needs to be laid down for as much as 20 years before it really matures.

The greatest vintage port ever made was Quinta do Noval 1931 - if you are ever lucky enough to be given any, savour the moment. The other great vintages are 1963, 1977 and 2000. They are however very expensive, whereas lesser vintages such as 1985 are remarkably good value at around £300 a case.

The port market has been difficult over the last 15 years as consumers move away from fortified wines. And as glorious as vintage port is, it is the stuff that hangovers are really made from! ·