Get lost on purpose: A guide to Fez
Thrillingly unique, Morocco’s most authentic city boasts a rabbit-warren, memory-clogging medina and fine, fruit-happy cuisine
Is any world city more immersive? The brilliant brouhaha of Morocco's oldest imperial capital delivers a full-throttle assault of every sense: colours dazzle, sounds blare for attention, smells delight and disgust, surfaces beg to be touched and foods thrill the tongue. Now served by direct weekly Air Arabia Maroc flights from Gatwick, Fez is truly a Moroccan must-see.
What to do
Fez's heart is Fez el-Bali: a UNESCO-protected medina, and the world's largest car-free urban area. Strolling this dilapidated, pulsating timewarp typically involves gasping constantly and dodging lots of donkeys. You'll probably also get lost as, supposedly, no cartographer has ever accurately translated Fez el-Bali's labyrinth to paper, including some alleys so narrow one must walk sideways – but that's half the fun. Make sure to duck into an ornate madrasa (school) and to visit the Chouara tanneries: hulking clay vats filled with vivid, multi-coloured dyes, as pongy as they are beautiful.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Where to shop
Guides help you get the best from the medina, but be aware that they'll sometimes pressure you into purchases at their friends' shops. Be polite but firm and, above all, be prepared to barter: haggling is a national sport. The medina divides into artisan quarters from jewellery to perfume; particularly impressive are its kaftans, rugs, cushions, babouche slippers and leather bags.
What to see
Only 45 minutes by train is Meknes, another imperial city and very attractive. Jemima Mann-Baha, owner of hotel, Palais Amani, also recommends the nearby Zalagh hills. 'In less than five minutes, you're in rolling countryside,' she declares. 'Picnic spots in mature olive groves have breathtaking medina views.'
Where to eat
Fez is reckoned to be Morocco's foodie capital, with its Fassi cuisine using fruits as vegetables and fond of spices like cumin and cinnamon. Riad Le Calife does all the classic dishes superbly, including tagines and pastilla – a sweet pie with pigeon meat.
Where to stay
Located beside one of the medina's main gates, Palais Amani's Art Deco building dates to the 1930s. There are 15 rooms, a candlelit hammam, a rooftop solarium and bar looking over Fez's minarets and satellite dishes, a restaurant, and a large, orange tree garden – the perfect retreat after those chaotic souks.
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The drive behind Germany's pro-Israel political consensus
Under the Radar Belief that Israel's security is a 'raison d'etre for the German republic' is under growing pressure
By The Week UK Published
-
'The House under GOP rule has become a hostile workplace'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Harold Maass, The Week US Published
-
The Shohei Ohtani gambling scandal is about more than bad bets
In The Spotlight The firestorm surrounding one of baseball's biggest stars threatens to upend a generational legacy and professional sports at large
By Rafi Schwartz, The Week US Published
-
Spring forward this March at these 6 delightful hotels
The Week Recommends Celebrate the return of spring at luxe properties in the Bahamas, Marrakech and Barcelona
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
The week's good news: Oct. 19, 2023
Good News It wasn't all bad!
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Two lost jet-skiers shot dead by coastguard
Speed Read Tensions between Algeria and Morocco heightened after death of holidaymakers who ‘strayed across border’
By Chas Newkey-Burden Published
-
La Sultana Marrakech review: an oasis of calm in the heart of the Kasbah
The Week Recommends This stunning boutique hotel is built in the shell of a Moroccan palace
By Kate Samuelson Published
-
The Oberoi, Marrakech review: take a dip into total tranquillity
The Week Recommends Five-star hotel feels a million miles away from Marrakech’s hustle and bustle
By Kate Samuelson Published
-
Le Jardin des Douars, Essaouira review: a glorious hit of serenity in Morocco
The Week Recommends Soak up the North African sun at this tranquil luxury boutique hotel
By Kate Samuelson Published
-
Sunshine and souks: a stay at the Fairmont Royal Palm Marrakech
In Depth This exclusive, indulgent hotel is the ideal hideaway for both the inexperienced traveller and the well-heeled globetrotter
By Felicity Capon Last updated
-
Is it safe to travel to Morocco?
In Depth Inquest hears that Briton died of rabies after misdiagnosis following cat bite in north African nation
By The Week Staff Last updated