Ananya: are diamonds really the ultimate precious stone?

When people think of the ultimate precious stone, something that is both versatile and timeless, a diamond is what instantly springs to mind. Yet only to focus on diamonds is to overlook a whole host of precious gemstones that are equally, if not more, interesting and beautiful in my mind.

The diamond has, over time, been given the reputation of being the “classic, forever gemstone”. The lack of colour in particular and the array of choices available in terms of different cuts, sizes and quality has meant that the options are endless; essentially it’s a stone that has come to lie within everyone’s comfort zone, which is why it is so enduring and, of course, popular.

Diamonds also hold connotations of status and symbolise engagement, but interestingly it is only relatively recently that they came to be associated with relationship status. Historically, there has been an exchange of marital jewellery, but until recently there was no one single gemstone that defined the tradition. As far back as the Romans, iron rings were symbolic of betrothal, while in traditional Indian culture, brides were adorned with gold dome-shaped pendants and toe-rings symbolic of matrimony.

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What originally set diamonds apart from other jewels was a very clever marketing campaign in the late 1930s, led by American firm De Beers. It was in the middle of the Great Depression and they were the first to convince people that “a diamond is forever”. The slogan was a massive success and a new cultural institution was born.

In my own work, I am always exploring the use of different colours. I will often incorporate diamonds into a design to compliment and highlight the colours of the gemstones, but they will never really serve as the focal point of the piece. For example, the Celeste Miniature Lotus Bracelet in Rose features round white diamonds to offset the custom cut ruby baguettes. I also enjoy working with a monochrome palate, especially with untraditional black diamonds, which let you create bold and contrasting colour schemes.

Celeste Layered Ear Jacket in pink

If you are comparing different stones based on their worth, there are numerous precious stones that are actually more valuable than diamonds, often due to their scarcity or sought-after characteristics. A personal favourite, alexandrite, is a colour-change chrysoberyl. It has the ability to change in colour from a vibrant green in daylight or fluorescent light to a purplish hue of red in incandescent light.

Kashmir sapphire, found up in the Himalayas roughly fifteen thousand feet above sea level, is known for its unmistakable cornflower blue. Another personal favourite, star emeralds, are rare emeralds found with natural features that form the shape of a star.

As a jewellery designer I am particularly interested in the meanings behind the stones. I think when people are looking at engagement rings, they rarely consider the symbolism behind the stone. Diamonds are obviously a lovely gift to receive, but you could equally choose a pink sapphire or perhaps a rose quart, both of which are said to activate the heart and inspire love.

Matching a stone to a specific occasion is definitely a personal choice. It is about celebrating the bond between the piece of jewellery and what it signifies to the wearer rather than conforming to a list of rules and norms. For my own line of jewellery I use a gemstone glossary as a tool for people to understand why they might use an emerald over a tanzanite or a sapphire over an aqua marine.

A ruby, for example, is thought by some to have strengthening and protective benefits and might be worn to celebrate a graduation, a landmark birthday or a relationship. Morganites, from the beryl family, are regarded as a perfect for someone entering a new venture. Moonstones, meanwhile, are thought to be a great gift for someone about to have a baby.

The value of a gemstone is subject to its size, weight, colour, quality and cut and will also vary in different international markets. A beautiful 1ct cabochon natural bluish-green Columbian emerald can be much more valuable than a diamond of the same size. Rubies and certain sapphires can be more affordable than diamonds but this is again subject to size and quality.

Within my own collections I champion alternative stones and precious jewels as they give you a variety and greater creative freedom. Bringing the two together also creates a fine balance in our pieces and makes them more wearable and approachable.

Nazar Bespoke Scatter Earrings

What I find interesting is that people are beginning to branch out and move away from traditional diamond rings. Customers are looking for something personalised, with gemstones that carry a significance to them and are unique to them.

Speaking personally, my favourite stone is the emerald. I have worn a Zambian emerald ring on my right hand for ten years. According to gemologists, emeralds are meant to be worn as a protective talisman. Mine has certainly been kind to me.

Ananya is a jewellery designer whose eponymous brand has just launched in London. The collections are inspired by her Indian heritage and expressed in a contemporary design. For more, visit ananya.com