The insider’s guide to eating out in Dubai

Dubai's five-star hotel restaurants, featuring Gordon Ramsay and other celebrity chefs, are world class. But it is in the cheap, unlicenced shisha cafés and simple restaurants, offering Arab and Lebanese cuisine, that you are more likely see local Emiratis dining, their 4x4s and Bugattis pulled off the road nearby. The First Post's top five have been chosen for atmosphere and good value as much as for good food. All have been nominated by people who live and work in the city.

£1 = 6 Dirhams (Dhs) Approx.
XVA Gallery Bastakia, Dubai
The muezzin’s prayer call booms over this townhouse in Dubai’s boho-chic area. It serves vegetarian dishes like mojaradara, an Arab lentil pilaf and frozen minted lemonade under an Indian almond tree.
Dhs 30 for a maincourse. contact: +971 4 353 5383; xvagallery.comAl KoufaBehind Al Nasr
A Lebanese eatery featuring Emirati specialities. Try barjilla and dango - a bedouin snack of beans and chickpeas with cumin and lime. Khameer and cheese is a sort of ploughman’s with fresh, fluffy bread.
Dhs 50 per head, excl. stage show. contact: +971 4 335 1511; alkoufa.comReem Al Bawadi Jumeirah Beach Road
Shisha bubbles and hostesses murmur marhaba (welcome) before leading you to tented alcoves. Try sayyadiah, a rice and fish dish, or spicy lamb kebab khish khash. Excellent mezze too.
Dhs 100 with shared mezze selection, a grill and drinks. contact: +971 4 394 7444; reemalbawadi.comRavi PalaceAl Satwa Road, Satwa
Noisy Pakistani/North Indian restaurant in the shopping district. A constant flurry of bills, plates and digestives go to varied diners - from labourers to diplomats. Try the mutton peshawari, korma and hot parathas. Dhs 10-15 pp for main course and salad. contact: +971 331 5353Habiba Al NabulsiMarraquabat Street, Deira
This sweet shop offers cheap Palestinian specialties at tables squashed between metre-high vats of the sweets. Mosakhan, a chicken pizza, is showered with sumac, roasted pine nuts and parsley.
Dhs 15-18 for a main course with soup. contact: +971 4 227 7760; habibanabulsi.net ·