Sancerre’s hidden reds

Sancerre is a small wine-growing area of 2,800 hectares in the eastern Loire, known mainly for its dry, flinty Sauvignon whites that feature on the wine list of just about every decent fish restaurant in the western world. Indeed, Sancerre, like Champagne, has become a brand name in its own right; punters will normally order a bottle of Sancerre rather than Domaine X or Y - which is actually rather a shame.

Sancerre itself is a pretty hill town overlooking the region. The best wines, however, come from the small villages surrounding it: Bue, Chevignol, Reigny and Veauyges. The best producers include Vacheron, Mellot, Reverdy and Fleuriet. The Fleuriet brothers - both intense and passionate young men - are the new quality producers on the block, from just outside the village of Chevignol. And if you are in the region, a visit to this village is a must. You'll find the marvellous, round and jolly fromager who makes the Loire's most famous cheese, Crottin de Chevignol (a hard, nutty goat's cheese that lasts forever and is best eaten after seven minutes under the grill), and La Cote des Monts Damnes, which is an excellent bistro for lunch.

The real secret of Sancerre, though, is the red wine they make, most of which disappears very quickly to Paris. The wine is made from Pinot Noir, the trickiest of all wine grapes to grow. The soil and climate (coldish – much the same as northern Burgundy and not so different from here) are perfect for carefully-grown Pinot Noir grapes. The wines are light-ish but have bags of intensity. They are best drunk within three or four years of the harvest and are perfect with cheese – especially Chevignol, of course. The intensity of both flavours contrasts beautifully.

As the Pinot Noir grape isn't easy to grow, there is considerable variation between growers and vintages. Go for one of the better growers mentioned above. Both 2007 and 2008 were successful years in the red Sancerre world, but even better, try several and then buy a few cases of the one you like the best before all those greedy Parisians get their hands on it. ·