A banquet in Bordeaux

At the end of last month the wine world held its biennial wine exhibition, Vinexpo, in Bordeaux with several thousand producers from around the world and more than 150,000 trade visitors.

Besides the exhibition itself, there were receptions and dinners every night - the most spectacular being at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou, one of the top St Julien 2nd classified growths.

The dinner at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou was hosted by Bruno Borie, the dashing showman proprietor, to celebrate the Fete of St Jean with about 250 lucky guests. It was a perfect, balmy night that started with a champagne reception (Dom Perignon 2000 in magnums) in the gardens overlooking the Gironde River.

At the bottom of the garden there was an enormous glass marquee, which looked as if it might have been borrowed from Kew Gardens, with 25 tables seating 20 - each with its own chef and sommelier.

The food - the minor player of the evening - was spectacular. For the first course, plates of beautifully presented pates, foie gras, tatins and salads. Then followed three exquisite main courses: carre de veau, cotes de boeuf and carre de cochon, each served with the freshest vegetables. And to finish, fruit that we simply don't see over here.

As good as the food was, the wine was the real point of the banquet - a succession of Château Ducru Beaucaillou in magnums from all the great vintages: 2005, 2003, 2000, 1995, 1970 and the 1961. All were superb.

The 1961 was from the greatest vintage of the 20th Century (perhaps ever), when the Chateau made one of the outstanding wines of that great year. It is now a collector's item and, if you can find it, will set you back over £1,000 a bottle. The wine was youthful, rich and concentrated - a taste sensation that is unrivalled.

I asked myself after this sumptuous banquet whether it was all a little over the top. But actually I concluded that no, it was not. It was all in the very best taste and everyone who was there will remember the Fete de St Jean at Chateau Ducru Beacaillou for many years to come - and that is what really good marketing is all about! ·