Ottoman Sarajevo

Only ten years ago, the damage wrought by the Bosnian war in Sarajevo was visible everywhere, with many buildings on the verge of collapse. The city's recovery since then has been amazing, says Sankha Guha in the Independent on Sunday.

No visitor should miss the Ottoman part of the old town, Bascarsija. Here "slab-paved alleyways wind through low-rise wooden buildings", "domes and minarets spike the skyline", and "blue-white clouds heavy with the aroma of beef drift in the air".

It was ruthlessly targeted by the Serbs who besieged the city – but the work of restoration has been so careful and thorough that today "you would not think it had changed for 400 years".

Regent Holidays (0845 277 3317) offers a five-night break to Bosnia from £520pp incl. flights. ·