Three Michelin stars: culinary Oscar or poisoned chalice?

A young restaurateur in Reims has joined the ranks of three-starred chefs. So, where's the champagne?

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(Image credit: 2014 AFP)

YOU have to feel sorry for Arnaud Lallement. The 39-year-old French chef was today awarded a coveted third star - Michelin's top accolade - for his fine cooking at the Assiette Champenoise, the restaurant he runs in Reims, the champagne capital of France.

It followed last year's honour of being named French chef of the year by the Gault&Millau guide and should have been an excuse for considerable rejoicing.

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Nigel Horne is Comment Editor of The Week.co.uk. He was formerly Editor of the website until September 2013. He previously held executive roles at The Daily Telegraph and The Sunday Times.