London Fashion Week: which were the best shows?
From juicy leathers to wipe-clean dresses, six of the best shows from the spring/summer 2014 collections
THE final day of London Fashion Week has arrived. LFW has a reputation for avant-garde trends and this week has been no exception, according to fashion critics. Here are the highlights of the 58 catwalks shows from the past five days:
Christopher Kane: The only way is up for the Scottish fashion designer. His new collection "swelled and slithered" across the body, says Suzy Menkes in the New York Times, revealing skin through metallic-framed petals. "Not since Georgia O'Keeffe's sensual paintings has an artist made so much of the sexuality of flowers," she says. Others described the collection as "sophisticated". His front row stars included Laura Carmichael, Downton Abbey's Lady Edith.
Erdem: Monochrome reigned supreme at Erdem Moralioglu's catwalk show. Said to be a favourite of Kate Middleton, the British-Turkish designer has duly produced a collection described as "feminine and elegant" by critics. Erdem "left behind his colourful prints and body-curving dresses for a softer, wispier look", says Suzy Menkes. The show even featured a grand piano and cello on the runway, giving it a "gentle touch".
Mulberry: Fashion spectators piled into Claridge's for the final Mulberry collection from Emma Hill, who officially left her post as creative director on Tuesday. The floor was laid in astro-turf and ivy climbed the walls, says Sarah Harris in Vogue, while Winston Churchill's voice crackled on the loud-speaker. "It was a poignant moment for all of a second," says Harris, "until Our House by Madness came screeching and out shot Cara Delevingne in a silvery jacquard coat."
J W Anderson: Billed as the "buzziest young designer on the schedule" by Jess Cartner-Morley in The Guardian, J W Anderson didn't disappoint his fans. Trademark twisted jumpers were worn with back-to-front pleated skirts, while wipe-clean table cloths were turned into dresses. Critics are agreed that Anderson is about to hit the big time, with rumours of a buyout by major fashion conglomerate LVMH, owner of Louis Vuitton and Christian Dior.
Burberry: Harry Styles and Sienna Miller were among the stars on the front row in Kensington Gardens for Burberry's London show. All the standard ingredients were there, says Dolly Jones in Vogue: lilting emotive music, petals raining from the roof, trench coats and Cara Delevingne on the catwalk. "But this season there were no studs, no hard-hitting, form-fitting glamour - it was Christopher Bailey [Burberry's creative director] in relaxed mode," she says.
Tom Ford: Walking out to Jay-Z's Heaven, Tom Ford's models (above) opened the show with a fierce biker jacket and crocodile-skin miniskirt combo. Leathers were as "shiny and juicy looking as a prize conker", says Lisa Armstrong in the Daily Telegraph, while "thigh-grazing jewelled dresses refracting more light than the Hubble Space telescope". It might be familiar, she adds, but "it is tremendously well done". ·