Miuccia Prada takes Milan to war

There was a wartime feel to Milan Fashion Week this weekend, with Prada’s spring/autumn collection leading the charge. Last season, Miuccia Prada showed the flimsiest of fabrics with the models wearing impractically high, Gwyneth Paltrow-style skyscraper heels. But on Sunday it looked like the catwalk had been invaded by a platoon of modern-day ‘land girls’ with their serviceable woollen skirt suits, knitted undergarments, plain brown leather belts and chic leather waders. 

Describing the collection backstage, ‘Miu Miu’ Prada said her new creations were "for the outside, for the countryside: for being in the fresh air, not being in a nightclub".

Antonio Marras, Kenzo's artistic director, went further, actually acquiring a large stock of military jackets which he used in many of the creations, transforming them with ruffles, ribbons, brocade and lace.

The clothes certainly accorded with a general downbeat mood. On Thursday, the first day of Milan, news came through that IT Holding SpA, which owns the brands Gianfranco Ferre, Malo and Exte, had filed for bankruptcy. Another designer affected was Roberto Cavalli, who, as reported here, was forced to pull out of showing his secondary line, Just Cavalli. 

However, with his couture line - a blaze of black leather, zips, fur, studs and slashed skirts - Cavalli showed no signs of being cowed. "You have to be aggressive to win," he said, adding that he had officially "declared war on the (financial) crisis." Liz Hurley, one of the many celebrities who lined the Cavalli catwalk, seemed impressed by his bullish stance.  ·