Meaty cooking and quirky wine list hit south London
The team behind Terroirs and Brawn have opened a third wine bar and bistro, this one in Battersea
What you need to know
Soif – French for taste – is a new wine bar and bistro in Battersea Rise serving hearty, rustic, seasonal French, Spanish and British food with an extensive range of natural and bio-dynamic wines from across Europe.
It is the third venue of its kind to be opened by Ed Wilson and Oli Barker, the team behind the popular Terroirs in Covent Garden and Brawn in Bethnal Green.
The menu changes daily. It includes dishes such as bone marrow with ceps, pigs cheeks cooked in cider, duck confit and French fish soup with rouille. Small plates start at £6, mains £17, and wines are around £30 a bottle.
27 Battersea Rise, London SW11 1HG. Tel: 020 7223 1112
What the critics like
The charcuterie is exceptional while main courses such as bavette steak with béarnaise are "everything they should be", says Lucas Hollweg in The Times. The natural wines all have "their own surprises and quirks of character". Soif is a fun night out.
The cooking is "meaty", says John Lancaster in The Guardian. A starter of breadcrumbed pig's trotter on a pile of celeriac remoulade could "convert people to the goodness of trotters". The wine list is focused on "the characterful, the non-industrial, the individual and the out-of-the-way". And the bill is not big.
Time Out says "we're searching through the superlatives to describe it". The wine list is enough to keep any buff happy and the room is "slightly rustic, vaguely Continental and a little louche, in just the way you'd want a wine bar to be".
What they don't like
It's hard to love this place because of its functional interior and "Sloane-packed" clientele, says Zoe Williams in The Daily Telegraph. "But the food is good, which is what the whole thing's meant to be about." ·