Rich taste of the Loire at Green Man and French Horn
Ed Wilson and Oli Barker pair gutsy food with good, affordable wine for Francophile heaven
What you need to know
The Green Man and French Horn is a new venture from Ed Wilson and Oli Barker, the team behind the popular new generation of French restaurants including Terroirs, Brawn and Soif. The building is a converted pub on St Martin's Lane, near Leicester Square.
The bistro focuses mainly on seasonal ingredients and wine from the Loire valley. Typical autumn dishes include rabbit with salsify and cider, partridge, ceps and pickled walnuts, and eel with garlic and parsley.
A meal for two, including wine and service, costs around £90. The plat du jour with a glass of wine costs £10.
What the critics like
The Green Man offers "small and big plates of rich gutsy food matched to interesting wines at a fair price", says Jay Rayner in The Observer. And it's "dispensed by people who actually know what they're serving".
The bistro offers personality in an otherwise chain-infested part of the West End, says Tracey Macleod in The Independent. Rich, characterful dishes include Coucou de Rennes - roasted chicken served with "a perfect still-life of pot-au-feu veg".
It's terrific bistro food, says Andrew Neather in the Evening Standard, from the wonderfully autumnal rabbit with salsify, to fat scallops "cooked to perfection, bursting with flavour".
What they don't like
The small tables and chairs are "packed into the narrow space like commuters", says Andy Lynes in Metro and the Loire theme is "a bit on the vague side". But if you can nab a cosy booth, "you'll be in Francophile heaven".