Sancerre has been undercut by new world sauvignon blancs in recent years, but there's nothing quite like the original.
A "juicy blast" from New Zealand is sometimes just "too loud, too strong, too relentlessly bright", says Susy Atkins in the Daily Telegraph. Treat yourself instead to the "whistle-clean lemon juice, precise and clear" of a true Sancerre - and don't serve it too cold.
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