In Review

Wine of the week: Burlotto brings a magician’s touch

Money Week wine expert Matthew Jukes on his pick of the week

2017 Barbera d’Alba, Aves, GB Burlotto, Piemonte, Italy
 

I am extremely excited to introduce you to this incredible new release from Burlotto. There is a stunning counterpoint between this wine’s old-fashioned label-design, which has barely changed since its founder Giovan Battista Burlotto’s time (he passed away in 1927 after supplying his wines to the Royal Court of Savoy), and the thrilling, modern, uniquely fruit-focused flavour contained inside this beautiful bottle.

In spite of the fact that the Barolos made at this amazing property are still foot-trodden and subjected to extended macerations, the flavours in every new wine are as bright and summer-pudding-soaked as any I have ever tasted. Watch out for the 2015 vintage releases of the Barolos from this historic property – Monvigliero, Cannubi, Acclivi (a blend of Burlotto’s crus) and the estate Barolo are all remarkably precise and aromatically splendid.

While these nebbiolos will take a while to soften and billow, you can crack on with the forward-drinking Aves. GB’s great-great-grandson, winemaker Fabio Alessandria, has a magician’s touch with this wine. Deeper than the regular Barbera cuvée, Aves is an expressive wine. It shows this lip-smacking grape off to the highest standard at the same time as capturing the nostalgic allure of Burlotto.

2017 Barbera d’Alba, Aves, GB Burlotto, Piemonte, Italy – £21.95, reduced to £19.75 each by the case, Lea & Sandeman, 020-7244 0522, leaandsandeman.co.uk

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com).

This article was originally published in MoneyWeek

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