In Review

Wine of the week: a truly sublime Gavi

This Gavi producer makes some of the most sensual and rewarding styles of white wine in Italy

2018 Gavi di Gavi, Lugarara, La Giustiniana, Piemonte, Italy
 

Back in 2012 I published a book, 100 Most Iconic Wine Estates. It was a devilish task whittling down my favourite wineries to the final century of greats. Over the intervening eight years I cannot seem to stop myself mentally editing this list of wineries as I taste and learn more about my beloved subject. I think that I might make as many as 25 changes if I were to repeat the exercise today. This shows just how fast the wine world evolves and it also reflects the slight changes I sense in my own tastes, too. I venture that La Giustiniana would make the grade.

This Gavi producer makes some of the most sensual and rewarding styles of white wine in Italy. Given the choice, I would plump for the top wine at this estate, the structured, age-worthy, single vineyard Montessora. The other day, I was dining at the brilliant Brinkley’s Kitchen in Wandsworth, London, and I ordered “2018 Gavi La Giustiniana” – there was no mention of any vineyard.

2018 Gavi di Gavi, Lugarara, La Giustiniana, Piemonte, Italy

When it arrived I was thrilled to note that it was my featured Lugarara, which is the more forward-drinking cuvée at this eminent estate. My goodness me it was sensational. It is the finest vintage of this single vineyard wine I have ever tasted. Check out the prices listed and you will see that you can drink this elite Italian white for between £15 and £20. Track it down today because it is a truly sublime creation.

2018 Gavi di Gavi, Lugarara, La Giustiniana, Piemonte, Italy – £18.49, £16.49 each if you buy six bottles, thewinereserve.co.uk; £17.80, toscanaccio.co.uk; £15.95, dunells.com; £15.15, exelwines.co.uk; £15.18, thedrinkshop.com.

This article was originally published in MoneyWeek

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