In Review

Wines of the week: five exquisite creations from Burgundy

This is an absolute gem of a quintet from Burgundy – and you must taste them all

 

My old pal Robin Davis from wine merchant Swig told me he had found an absolute gem of a line-up from Burgundy and asked if I would like a look. Not one, but five bottles appeared on my doorstep. Three were 2018 Saint-Romains and two were Corton Grands Cru – true to form, Robin has found five exquisite creations. The entire quintet has made the cut and you simply must taste them all.

The 2018 Saint-Romain La Perrière and 2018 Saint-Roman Sous La Velle, both £32 (from £36), and my headliner Sous le Château, are all epic examples of 2018s. They are not too fat, too oleaginous or too forward, but dramatic, lustrous creatures with amazing firmness of acidity and joyous, layered fruit. The oak element in each is subtle and supportive, and at these prices they are all incredible value, too.

Sous le Château is the fullest of the trio and La Perrière the most balletic, but I would urge you to buy all three – they show that, in warmer vintages, lesser-known villages tucked away in the Côte d’Or make far more scintillating wines than those that lounge around in the sun all day.

2018 Saint-Romain, Sous le Château, Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson, Burgundy, France

Flore Deronzier

The same goes for the two reds: 2018 Corton, Grand Cru Les Renardes, £70 (from £75), and 2016 Corton, Grand Cru, Le Rognet-et-Corton, £70 (from £75). These are two of the finest Cortons I have tasted this year, not excepting DRC’s 2017 Corton, which is 15 times the price!

2018 Saint-Romain, Sous le Château, Domaine Henri & Gilles Buisson, Burgundy, France – £39, reduced to £34 for MoneyWeek readers, swig.co.uk

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

This article was originally published in MoneyWeek

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