In Review

Wine of the week: a perfect and thrilling tightrope routine

This 2018 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia is a delicious and well-thought-through wine

2018 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, Tuscany, Italy
 

Winemaker Olga Fusari pulled off a perfect tightrope routine when she made this wonderful wine - the 2018 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia.

Ornellaia is famous for making one of the most expensive and collectable of all Super-Tuscan reds, but this 2018 vintage of its unusual white blend is a thriller. Made from 83% sauvignon blanc, 11% vermentino and 6% viognier, this is a full-bodied white wine.

It not only tastes amazing, but also carries with it a sense of true vinous skill and innate balance. The 2018 was, if you look at the climatic conditions, a rather rainy vintage, at least for the first half of the year. Rainy years often give rise to dilute crops, but the sun shone in the second half of the summer and cool nights ensued, so this wine has fleshiness, levity and also crucial acidity. 

If you are trying to guess what this wine tastes like, you will not be able to do it from the grapes involved, let alone their percentage involvement in this blend! Rather think of them as a layer cake, led by sensual and provocative viognier, followed by herbal, saline vermentino and then powered on for minutes by part-oak-fermented and aged sauvignon blanc.

2018 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, Tuscany, Italy

Half of this wine sees barriques and half again is new oak. This component allows the palate and finish of this wine to puff out its chest and strut its stuff. This is a delicious and well-thought-through wine with delicacy and considerable richness in perfect harmony. It never oversteps the mark, while retaining its lush, citrus and tropical fruit allure ,and that makes it ever so captivating and thoroughly worthy of its Ornellaia label.

2018 Poggio alle Gazze dell’Ornellaia, Tuscany, Italy – £41.68, armitwines.co.uk

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

This article was originally published in MoneyWeek

Recommended

Moët toasts Jay-Z’s champagne after buying 50% stake
Champagne Armand de Brignac
Why we’re talking about . . .

Moët toasts Jay-Z’s champagne after buying 50% stake

Best wines to drink in 2021
Best wines to drink in 2021
On the menu

Best wines to drink in 2021

Expert’s guide: how to make a perfectly balanced cocktail
Patrick Pistolesi at Drink Kong bar in Rome, Italy
On the menu

Expert’s guide: how to make a perfectly balanced cocktail

How to make the perfect pancake
Pancake day recipes
On the menu

How to make the perfect pancake

Popular articles

Budget predictions: what will Rishi Sunak announce?
Chancellor of the Exchequer Rishi Sunak poses with the Budget Box outside 11 Downing Street
Why we’re talking about . . .

Budget predictions: what will Rishi Sunak announce?

Best TV crime dramas to watch in 2021
Line of Duty series six returns to BBC One in 2021
In Depth

Best TV crime dramas to watch in 2021

Ten Things You Need to Know Today: 26 Feb 2021
10 Downing Street
Daily Briefing

Ten Things You Need to Know Today: 26 Feb 2021