In Review

Wine of the week: a mind-blowingly exciting aperitif

This riesling is a bargain and a beauty. And at a sniff under 20 quid, it is positively irresistible

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Kabinett, JJ Prüm, 2018, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

JJ Prüm is just about the only epic wine estate in the world on my hit list of greats that I have yet to visit. I have travelled to Germany many times and I have asked to visit Prüm (twice), but they have turned me down (both times). I am not sure why, but it hasn’t stopped me drinking gallons of their wines and writing up their finest releases in my various columns.

The rieslings from the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, across all sweetness levels including the rare goldkapsel (gold capsule) wines, are all celestial, highly sophisticated and extraordinarily age-worthy. This 33-acre estate, with nearly 70% of ungrafted vines, also includes holdings in Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, my featured Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Lay and Bernkasteler Badstube, and all of these wines are worth tracking down. 

My featured wine is a bargain and a beauty – at a sniff under 20 quid, it is positively irresistible. It tips the scales at a teeny 9% alcohol and this means that it is ever so slightly grapey and off-dry on the palate.

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Kabinett, JJ Prüm, 2018, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany

It’s like stepping back in time 40 years to an age when we all drank delicate Mosel Rieslings instead of gauche sparkling wines before dinner. Nothing has changed in the Jukes household over this period because we still enjoy this tradition! So try your hand at this mind-blowingly exciting aperitif because it is totally alive with prickly acidity and heavenly, tender fruit.  

Graacher Himmelreich, Riesling, Kabinett, JJ Prüm, 2018, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany – £19.68, Justerini & Brooks, 020-7484 6430, justerinis.com

Matthew Jukes is a winner of the International Wine & Spirit Competition’s Communicator of the Year (matthewjukes.com)

This article was originally published in MoneyWeek

 

Recommended

Tried and tasted: DIY restaurant meal kits
Finish & Feast presents Musette by Tom Aikens
On the menu

Tried and tasted: DIY restaurant meal kits

Wines to drink in 2021
Best wines to drink in 2021
On the menu

Wines to drink in 2021

Nusr-Et: an Instagram chain arrives in London
Nusret Gokce Salt Bae
The latest on . . .

Nusr-Et: an Instagram chain arrives in London

The Deliveroo revolution
Deliveroo
Why we’re talking about . . .

The Deliveroo revolution

Popular articles

15 most expensive English towns outside of London
Virginia Water, Surrey
In Depth

15 most expensive English towns outside of London

TV crime dramas to watch in 2021
Bryan Cranston stars in Your Honor (Showtime)
In Review

TV crime dramas to watch in 2021

Ten Things You Need to Know Today: 10 April 2021
10 Downing Street
Daily Briefing

Ten Things You Need to Know Today: 10 April 2021