Wine of the week: the most magical Douro white in existence
Discover a flavour that confounds the senses and tantalises the taste buds
2019 Cedro do Noval, Vinho Branco, Noval, Douro, Portugal – £19.95, secretbottleshop.co.uk
This wine is a genuine star of the small screen. Amazon Prime last week aired the first episode of series three of The Wine Show, and Cedro Branco stole the show. There was a cast of superstars, but I only had eyes for this epic white wine, which hit shop shelves at the end of October.
There is very limited stock in the UK, with the Secret Bottle Shop website among the selected suppliers, and Cambridge Wine Merchants, South Downs Cellars, Carruthers & Kent and Clarion Wines all said to be aiming to get in on the action.
Quinta do Noval is a legendary property that makes legendary wines, and the 1931 Quinta do Noval Nacional Vintage Port is the finest I have ever tasted. But this wine is not fortified and nor is it a wine that requires age to mellow its charms. Made from 65% viosinho and 35% gouveio and fermented and matured in French oak, of which 20% was new barrels, this is a thrillingly daring white wine.
At a refined 13.5% alcohol, Cedro is a cleverly balanced creation that echoes top-flight Chablis in terms of flavour intensity and pristine freshness. But under the bonnet, there is a very different engine, powered by wild herbs, waxy citrus pith and stone fruit. Its flavour confounds the senses and tantalises your taste buds.
In short, this is arguably the most magical Douro white in existence.
This article was originally published in MoneyWeek