In Review

A bloody marvellous Sunday lunch at the Station Tavern

You'll come for the never-ending Yorkshire puddings and stay for the bottomless Bloody Marys at this Cambridge watering hole

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In 2008, the Royal Society of Chemistry ruled on the acceptable dimensions of the Yorkshire pudding. "A Yorkshire pudding isn't a Yorkshire pudding if it is less than four inches tall," they declared, leading everyone to wonder which batter pedant had called it into question in the first place.

Thankfully, the Yorkies gracing the new menu at the Station Tavern in Cambridge tower majestically over their less vertiginous plate-fellows. Crispy, light and cavernous, they march forth from the kitchen for the entirety of your Sunday roast, or until you say stop.

For a 300-year-old pudding that began life to dull appetites cheaply before the meat course, the humble Yorkshire has done rather well for itself.

They're joined by a choice of locally sourced beef sirloin, lemon and thyme chicken, cider-glazed pork belly or vegetarian Wellington with all the trimmings – cauliflower cheese, smashed carrots and swede, hispi cabbage and crispy goose-fat potatoes.

It isn't only the Yorkies that are bottomless, so, too, are the Tavern's Bloody Marys. This is where the real fun starts. At the "Build Your Own Bloody Mary" station, you'll find all the ingredients and more for this brunch basic neatly laid out like a Boxing Day platter. The bartender simply adds the vodka - we plumped for a piquant Absolut Peppar - and then it's over to you to select anything from cornichons to pickled onions, olives to crispy bacon rashers. Like it spicy? Add a generous dollop of horseradish and a glug of Tabasco. Sharper? Add as much freshly squeezed lemon as you want. Keep tasting as you experiment with the spices and pickles, stir thoroughly with a leafy celery stalk and then Instagram the life out of it.

You can go up to the Bloody Mary station as often as you like for the duration of your meal, although it is capped at 1.5 hours.

Located a stone's throw from the train station, the Station Tavern is 45 mins from London's King's Cross and 30 minutes from Stansted airport, making Bottomless Sundays an ideal pit-stop for you or your weekend guests returning home.

The Station Tavern, 2 Station Square, Cambridge. Bottomless Sundays runs until 24th September, 12pm-4pm, priced at £32.50. Book online at thestationtavern.co.uk or email stationtavern@youngs.co.uk

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