Tuyo restaurant review: Fusion cooking without the confusion

Fusion can be a dirty word in culinary circles, but this pan-Mediterranean restaurant shows how it can be done

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For culinary purists there's something uncomfortable about fusion cookery and its attempt to unite two or more cuisines into a sublime other. It's a noble aim but it often ends badly. The fused cooking styles come away looking a little muddled and out of place, with nothing as delicious as it should be if it existed on its own terms.

But Tuyo in East London, just across the bridge from Broadway Market, has forced me to confront my prejudice about fusion food. Rather than try to consolidate cuisines separated by thousands of miles (and even more years of cultural tradition) into a single whole, the restaurant draws on techniques and flavours from a more historically and geographically connected locality.

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