T-shirt: Cult, Culture, Subversion
A new exhibition at The Fashion and Textile Museum in London explores the power of the garment as a form of self-expression
"If you want to get the message out there, you should print it in giant letters on a T-shirt." This certainly rings true for the quote's originator Katharine Hamnett. The fashion designer made her name in the 1980s with her revolutionary slogan-emblazoned creations favoured by the likes of George Michael and Naomi Campbell. And it's a tactic that still has the ability to strike a chord, with Dior's sell-out "We Should All Be Feminists" T-shirt one of the most talked-about fashion items of the past year.
London's Fashion and Textile Museum will track the powerful history of this most humble of garments with a new exhibition exploring its ability to shock, surprise and subvert. Encompassing more than 100 items spanning 50 years, it tracks the evolution from early construction methods to the wearable technology of today, and how along the way it has served as everything from fashion statement to a vehicle for political expression.
Highlights include rare pieces from Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren such as the "Cambridge Rapist" T-shirt, encapsulating the aesthetic of the 1970s punk era. Meanwhile Westwood, who played a particularly central role in transforming the T-shirt into a mode of self-expression and cultural signifier, will have an entire section dedicated to her private archive.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Similarly, band T-shirts have long played a key part in how we outwardly identify with – or against – our social peers. Here, instantly recognisable designs representing the likes of Joy Division, The Velvet Underground as well as Nico and The Rolling Stones are displayed, while the exhibition also delves deeper into the debate as to how far fashion has co-opted the concept.
Moving onto the political, the show explores the garment's influence in equal rights movements, and the figures behind the most iconic designs. Among the pieces on display will be Keith Haring’s ‘Ignorance = Fear, Silence = Death’, highlighting issues around AIDS, with the role slogan T-shirts played in the history of the LGBT+ Community Pride showcased further with a visual timeline of events and campaigns. It then moves on to explore how other ethical issues have permeated the fashion industry in different ways, including the rise of eco-friendly garment manufacturing and the designers that champion sustainability.
It also investigates how the T-shirt itself has augmented and shape-shifted over the decades, from changing silhouettes to being adopted by different sub-cultures. And with T-shirts just as likely to be sold in designer boutiques as on the high street, it remains just as pivotal a part of popular culture today.
T-shirt: Cult - Culture - Subversion is at The Fashion and Textile Museum from 9 February to 6 May 2018; ftmlondon.org
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
Labour's Brexit conundrum
The Explainer Keir Starmer backs 'twin track' strategy – build closer security ties with EU while ruling out single market, customs union and free movement
By The Week UK Published
-
6 scenic white water rafting destinations to get your heart racing
The Week Recommends Have a rip-roaring time on the water
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published
-
Dangerous substances in Lunchables are raising concerns over children's health
In the Spotlight High levels of lead and sodium were recently found in the snack packages
By Justin Klawans, The Week US Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published
-
La Zebra review: beach chic, perfect tacos and secret cenotes
The Week Recommends Enjoy a stylish stay in Mexico at this family-friendly beach hotel and restaurant
By William Leigh Published
-
Atlantis Paradise Island Bahamas review: a mythical beachside resort
The Week Recommends Combine the classically simple pleasures of sun, sea and sand with upmarket fun and food
By Adrienne Wyper Published