Aurora hunters: on the trail of the Northern Lights
You may travel north in search of the Northern Lights, but this is no guarantee that you will actually see them
On a mission to spot the Northern Lights - nature’s own theatre - The Week Portfolio journeyed to a tiny town 150 miles into the Arctic Circle where reindeer massively outnumber the 350 human inhabitants.
Hauntingly quiet, the wintry kingdom of Saariselkä is almost as far north as one can holiday in the world. Covered at all times with a thick blanket of snow, this remote Finnish outpost is also home to two magical beings: Santa Claus and the Aurora Borealis. You can drop in to see one, but the other is a fickle mistress.
Aurora Borealis comes from the Greek words “Aurora” meaning “sunrise” and “Boreas” meaning “wind”. For thousands of years, the lights remained mystical, explained through ancient tales, from celestial battles between fire-breathing dragons to walrus spirits playing football with skulls.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The particularly imaginative Makah Indians believed the lights were fires in the north created by a tribe of dwarves who used it to boil whale blubber. Aristotle made the first scientific account in the fourth century BC, likening them to flames of burning gas. Today we know that they are a vivid demonstration of the Earth’s magnetic field interacting with charged particles from the sun. But we still can’t predict with any certainty when the celestial ballet will burst across the sky.
Photo: Marku Inkilä
“You may see the lights, you may not”, I am told with typical Finnish stoicism. We are huddled around a fire with two Aurora hunters on the edge of Lake Inari. A long way from any light pollution, the 3000 sq km frozen lake is the perfect setting for a dazzling show. Wrapped in snowsuits, we cluster together like patient penguins with cups of warm Glögi, a sweet cordial made from lingonberries and cranberries.
Our eyes search the darkness for any splashes of colour and while we wait, our guide Ivo Hefner tells us about the Finnish concept of jokamiehenoikeus – “everyman’s right”. This Nordic law allows you to not only camp freely but also to pick wild mushrooms, blueberries, cloudberries and lingonberries in the woods. We learn that foraged berries make the best Glögi, but it’s impossible to keep as the Finnish are such fans, they drink it as soon as they make it. Cordial it is then.
We pass around fire-toasted pastries and watch and wait. Two hours in and there is still no sign. A couple of people have downloaded My Aurora, one of many location based iPhone apps that tells you how likely you are to see the lights and the best spots at any given time. This can change by the minute, so it is impossible to predict with any surety when they may make an entrance, something which is looking less likely as time passes. Full of Glögi and pastries, we reluctantly decide to call it a night and head back to Saariselkä.
On the way we stop at Nellim, a small village close to the Russian border in the heart of Sámi land. In scenes reminiscent of a Grimm fairytale, we trundle down an eerily silent snowy track, pulling up outside a deserted wooden Skolt Orthodox church, built entirely from Lappish logs. We tiptoe round, peering inside at the beautiful union of ornate luxury and simple wooden structures. Suddenly one of our group members shouts that he has seen something. We bolt over to the minibus and look up to the sky, where vivid green lights are moving fast inside the clouds, darting across the sky like actors behind a curtain. A tiny hole appears and lets out a pop of neon as a small aurora bursts through for mere seconds. We stand, breathless and entranced.
This is the only time I see the northern lights in Finland and strangely, I don’t mind one bit. In a world where we know where everything will be, and at what time, it feels oddly reassuring that we cannot predict the arrival of the Aurora Borealis. Instead, those looking for it must seek it out together, talking to each other as they stare up at the night sky rather than their phones.
Photo: Marku Inkilä
We head back to the Northern Lights Village in Saariselkä, sleepy but excited. This unique destination is the brainchild of Markku Inkilä, a self-proclaimed Aurora nut who was actually born under the Northern Lights. A cluster of 80 sleek north-facing cabins with laser-heated domed glass roofs sits in the very heart of the Auroral Zone, deep in a pine forest and completely separated from the lights of the nearby town.
This snowy playground is the perfect base from which to explore Lapland’s untamed wilderness. A family friendly resort, it has an excellent sledding hill for kids as well as a snowmobile track and a reindeer paddock.
Photo: Inari-Saariselkä Tourism
The on-site restaurant has a roaring fire at all times and fresh, local food including fish, game, Lappish potatoes and lingonberries, or bread and cheese with cloudberry jam.
With more than 20 years experience in “wilderness programs”, Northern Lights Village has a fantastic array of excursions on offer including husky safaris, cross-country skiing, snowshoe hiking, reindeer sledge riding and of course, Aurora chasing with some of the best guides in the country.
There are remote Aurora Camp excursions along the Russian border, minibus hunts and snowmobile adventures. In March and April, you can even participate in ice-fishing and salmon fishing competitions or visit reindeer races all over Northern Lapland.
On average the Aurora Borealis is visible 200 times a year in northern Finland, so there’s a high chance you may spot them here, but either way you will leave brimming with Arctic enthusiasm after the trip of a lifetime.
The Week Portfolio travelled with the Northern Lights holiday specialists, The Aurora Zone (01670 785 012; www.theaurorazone.com) on the three-night Saariselkä – Autumn Lights Tailor Made itinerary. With departures from 27 August until 30 November 2018, prices start from £1,215 pp (two sharing) including flights from London, transfers, half-board Aurora Cabin accommodation and cold weather clothing. Guided activities extra.
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
'Republicans want to silence Israel's opponents'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Harold Maass, The Week US Published
-
Poland, Germany nab alleged anti-Ukraine spies
Speed Read A man was arrested over a supposed Russian plot to kill Ukrainian President Zelenskyy
By Peter Weber, The Week US Published
-
Today's political cartoons - April 19, 2024
Cartoons Friday's cartoons - priority delivery, USPS on fire, and more
By The Week US Published
-
Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan: unparalleled elegance and cultural immersion
The Week Recommends Serenity is redefined at this luxurious resort in the beating heart of Bali
By Yasemen Kaner-White Published
-
Maradiva Villas Resort & Spa, Mauritius: the perfect 'get-away-from-it-all' resort
The Week Recommends Mauritius, the star of the Indian Ocean, is the ultimate in relaxing destinations
By James Rampton Published
-
Four Seasons Megève: a 'secluded' mountain retreat with plenty to explore
The Week Recommends There is ample opportunity to hike, eat, play and relax at this Alpine resort
By Natasha Langan Published
-
Three Chimneys restaurant and The House Over-By review: Skye's sumptuous rural hideaway
The Week Recommends The award-winning restaurant with rooms is well worth battling the elements to reach
By Jamie Timson, The Week UK Published
-
Andaz Mayakoba Resort Riviera Maya: luxury ecotourism meets Mexican flair
The Week Recommends Caribbean resort hidden in Yucatán Peninsula mangroves combines fine dining with a true love of nature
By Harriet Marsden, The Week UK Published
-
Kurhotel Skodsborg: where the atmosphere of Copenhagen meets the wild
The Week Recommends The resort near Denmark's capital offers a stylish and authentic Danish spa experience
By Alexandra Zagalsky Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated