French fancy: L’Escargot London restaurant review
Soho’s grande dame of Gallic cuisine continues to shine
Immediately recognisable to London diners-about-town by its neon sign, Greek Street bistrot L’Escargot is a true Soho institution.
Serving classic French fare to hungry Londoners since 1927, the restaurant claims the honour of being the first establishment in England to serve snails.
Yet despite its venerable status and a clientele which has included the likes of Coco Chanel, John Gielgud and Princess Diana, there is nothing stiff or stuffy about L’Escargot.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The decor may lean heavy on opulence - bas reliefs, antique furniture, plush red upholstery and a crystal chandelier - but the atmosphere is relaxed, the fin-de-siecle ostentation pierced by irreverent artwork spanning from Matisse to Beryl Cook.
A convivial hum of chatter arises from a varied clientele which runs the gauntlet from the suit-and-tie set to tourists in padded jackets.
To start, I order the lobster bisque and, upon an enthusiastic recommendation from our warm and knowledgeable waitress, a glass of Sancerre sauvignon blanc.
The bisque arrives rich, thick and so unrepentantly pungent that the Sancerre practically acts as a life raft, it's crisp tang cutting through the intensely savoury smack of fish stock.
About two-thirds of the way in, I become dimly aware that my hunger is already dangerously sated, but it's no use - the heart wants what it wants, and soon the bowl is empty.
My companion orders the French onion soup, a classic which seems impossible to bypass given L'Escargot’s pedigree as Soho’s grande dame of Gallic gastronomy.
The soup itself - an unctuously moreish blend of savoury and sweet - almost plays second fiddle to the enormous hunk of cheese which takes up most of the dish. The cheese proves too much - defeat is declared long before the bottom of the bowl hoves into view.
My companion’s main - half a lobster, served with minted peas and pommes frites - is ocean-fresh and expertly garnished, although the amount of meat within seems slightly miserly in comparison with L’Escargot’s general trend towards hearty portions.
Beef bourguignon is a more resounding success. A robustly flavoursome sauce pools around impossibly tender beef, slivers of carrot, mushrooms and fatty chunks of pork.
Rather than a predictable heavy red, our waitress recommended a medium-bodied, fruity Fleurie beaujolais to accompany the meal, which proves an unexpected delight.
After such hearty fare, a trio of sorbets - raspberry, mango and lemon - act as a refreshing manna in a wilderness of butter and cream.
Meanwhile, a Grand Marnier souffle - served piping hot and arriving with a strong bouquet of freshly beaten egg - is so melt-in-the-mouth that you find yourself not so much eating it as chasing it.
Coffee is offered to close out the meal, but after so much indulgence a lie-down seems an even more tempting proposition.
L’Escargot is in no danger of losing its reputation as London’s well-upholstered custodian of the best of Gallic cuisine - although even the most indulgent epicures are advised to go in on an empty stomach.
L’Escargot, 48 Greek St, W1D 4EF; lescargot.co.uk
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
'Good riddance to the televised presidential debate'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Harold Maass, The Week US Published
-
Caitlin Clark the No. 1 pick in bullish WNBA Draft
Speed Read As expected, she went to the Indiana Fever
By Peter Weber, The Week US Published
-
Today's political cartoons - April 16, 2024
Cartoons Tuesday's cartoons - sleepyhead, little people, and more
By The Week US Published
-
Three Chimneys restaurant and The House Over-By review: Skye's sumptuous rural hideaway
The Week Recommends The award-winning restaurant with rooms is well worth battling the elements to reach
By Jamie Timson, The Week UK Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published
-
La Zebra review: beach chic, perfect tacos and secret cenotes
The Week Recommends Enjoy a stylish stay in Mexico at this family-friendly beach hotel and restaurant
By William Leigh Published