Bloomin’ Brilliant Afternoon Tea at Royal Lancaster London review

Few events capture the essence of an English summer like garden shows and afternoon tea, so what better way to celebrate both than with a flora-themed teatime feast? So goes the reasoning behind the Royal Lancaster London’s Bloomin’ Brilliant Afternoon Tea, and having sampled it, The Week Portfolio is convinced.

With gardening fans heading to the capital for the Chelsea Flower Show this month, this summery spread pays tribute to all things horticultural, including the glorious Rose Garden in Hyde Park, just across the road from the hotel. The five-star establishment’s team of pastry chefs really have gone above and beyond - literally in the case of their Royal Lancaster honey, which is produced in beehives installed on the hotel’s roof.

The Bloomin’ Brilliant Afternoon Tea is served 18 floors below, in the recently opened Hyde Lobby Bar, a suitably light and airy space with marble floors, minimalist white furnishings and a brass honeycomb-style chandelier.

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Seated at a table adorned with a single red rose, my companion and I decide to get into the spirit of the occasion with a glass of Moët & Chandon Impérial Rosé Champagne.

We’d have been happy to continue quaffing bubbly for the rest of the afternoon, but it would be a shame to miss out on the impressive selection of fine teas on offer, ranging from traditional favourites such as English breakfast to more exotic varieties including spiced chai and the wonderfully fruity Persian pomegranate. The friendly waiting staff deliver your chosen blend to your table along with an old-fashioned sand timer with three different hourglasses, each of which measures the perfect steeping time for specific tea types. Now that’s attention to detail.

That same focus on the little (but so important) stuff is evident in the savoury fare that follows. Highlights include the citrus and chamomile tea-smoked salmon roses; free-range egg and baby cress rolled-up sandwiches; and a warm tartlet of Somerset brie, red onion chutney and the hotel’s home-hived honey. The sunflower-seed choux buns filled with coronation chicken are also a hit, and add an exotic flavour to this most English of afternoon teas.

No afternoon tea could be bloomin’ brilliant without scones, of course. Served warm straight from the oven, the scones on the Royal Lancaster London’s menu are light, fluffy golden pillows with a wonderfully buttery flavour. Topped with a choice of home-made strawberry jam or orange marmalade, and a dollop of Cornish clotted cream, they’re one of the stars of this culinary show.

That’s particularly impressive given the selection of delicacies that round off our afternoon of indulgence. Despite my initial misgivings, the orange blossom and ginger macarons are a winning combination of both floral and spicy flavours; while the strawberry tarts with lime curd and baby basil are a perfect balance of sweet and citrus.

Chocolate fans should be more than satisfied with the milk chocolate and lavender lollipops with ganache centres, and everyone should sample the lemon and elderflower sablé domes: chocolately white shells filled with a smooth, tangy mousse set atop a moist, cookie-like base.

The best of this bunch, however, are the chocolate flower pots with crystallised violets. Made with Valrhona fine French chocolate, these sins on a plate are crisp, dark cases filled with rich chocolate cream and a crumbly, crunchy topping of violet-infused sugar mixed with yet more cocoa-packed chocolate.

Should that final round of goodies prove too much for you, the Royal Lancaster London’s staff will pack up your leftovers to take home, along with a packet of bee-friendly seeds for each guest to plant. It’s a fitting send-off for an experience that could turn even the most avid urbanite into a gardening fan.

The Bloomin’ Marvellous Afternoon Tea is served daily from 2pm until 5.30pm, until June, and costs £35 per person; £45 with a glass of Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne; and £55 with a glass of Moët & Chandon Impérial Rosé Champagne.

Royal Lancaster London, Lancaster Terrace, London W2 2TY; 0207 551 6000; www.royallancaster.com