Wolfgang Puck on innovation, travel and the death of Anthony Bourdain
The award-winning chef talks to Portfolio about how he stays on top in the ever-changing restaurant industry
Last night, renowned chef Wolfgang Puck was presented with the Catey award of International Outstanding Achievement in front of an audience of 1,250 industry figures.
Presenting the award to Puck, hospitality entrepreneur Clive Jacobs described the quality and scope of Puck’s operation as “simply phenomenal”. The chef is attached to more than 100 restaurants around the world including Dorchester Collection’s CUT at 45 Park Lane and Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air.
Just prior the win, The Week Portfolio caught up with Puck to discuss how the world restaurant scene is changing, what he has learned over the past year and what he thinks will be the legacy of his sometime critic Anthony Bourdain.
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It has been a year since we last spoke to you – but the culinary world moves quickly. What, in your view, have been the biggest shifts in the world of fine dining in the past year?
It is changing all the time, just like the world of fashion. If we don’t innovate we fall behind. One of our strengths here at CUT at 45 Park Lane is that we evolve all the time. Right now we are going to add some Asian dishes to our menu following the success of the Chinois on Main pop-up that took place here. We have another pop-up with Frances Mallmann in October so watch this space.
And what have been the biggest changes in your own businesses?
Tradition and innovation have always been the key principles for me. We always try to innovate and move forward. For example, at CUT we get excited about doing new things, last year we did the Spago pop-up and this year another successful pop-up with Chinois on Main.
How is Spago settling in at the Bellagio?
Spago at the Bellagio is amazing. We have the right synergy: an upscale hotel with the best spot overlooking the fountain, delicious food and a great setting. It is the perfect place to be.
Successful people, they say, never stop learning. What have you learned about food in the past year?
I always learn from young people. I also just finished 2 months at Harvard and will be going back again as I want to learn and set an example that everyone on my team has to continue to grow. Nowadays it is easier to learn about food through travelling around the world, getting inspirations from a variety of destinations.
The world lost a true gastronomic great last month in Anthony Bourdain. What do you think his legacy will be?
Anthony Bourdain did a great service for the food world, showing the way people live and eat. Through food we can be friends, enjoying a moment with great food is the most important part of life. Anthony did an amazing job of showcasing this; he explored different experiences but always including food in this experience.
Where do you like to eat when you are in the UK?
I love staying in London at the contemporary 45 Park Lane, whilst I am here I sometimes go across the street and eat at China Tang at The Dorchester. I sometimes go to Bar Boulud as Chef Daniel is a friend of mine.
If you had to swap lives and careers with one other chef… who would you swap with?
I wouldn’t swap with anybody. Did I make mistakes? For sure! But you don’t become successful by being perfect. I am very happy with where I am today; being here in London and opening in other cities around the world is a pleasure.
What one piece of advice would you give to a chef starting out today who dreams of having a career like yours?
Because of the television and internet, chefs can be tempted to not have the patience to learn their professions properly. You have to build a good base of skills and then you can grow from there. Chefs cannot forget that hospitality is just as important as cooking, to be successful you have to be a good cook, manager, public relations expert and most of all you have to be able to make money to stay in business.
Wolfgang Puck was in London last month for a four-day pop up at CUT at 45 Park Lane, Dorchester Collection’s contemporary Mayfair hotel. The pop up marked the 35th anniversary of Chinois on Main, where Puck pioneered one of the first fusions of Asian flavours and French techniques in the US in 1983.
For more, visit dorchestercollection.com
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Arion McNicoll is a freelance writer at The Week Digital and was previously the UK website’s editor. He has also held senior editorial roles at CNN, The Times and The Sunday Times. Along with his writing work, he co-hosts “Today in History with The Retrospectors”, Rethink Audio’s flagship daily podcast, and is a regular panellist (and occasional stand-in host) on “The Week Unwrapped”. He is also a judge for The Publisher Podcast Awards.
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