Fat Tony’s at Bar Termini Centrale review: an offer you can’t refuse
Top fresh pasta at very reasonable prices makes this one not to be missed
It’s hard to believe that there’s a little corner of pasta perfection just round the back of Selfridges in central London. Just a bowl of spaghetti’s throw away from any number of badly lit, pay-through-the-nose tourist traps.
But Fat Tony’s at Bar Termini Centrale, the bigger brother of the cosy Soho spot inspired by Rome’s Termini train station, is just that.
At the heart of its genius - as with most good pasta places - is simplicity. The menu is unfussy with dishes from different Italian regions inspired by founder and head chef James French’s extensive travels around Italy and an apprenticeship at Michelin starred L’Erba del Re in Modena.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The genuine nature of the experience reflects itself in the waiting staff and the bar’s convivial atmosphere. Immediately corralled by Italians in white coats and black ties to a table outside, it seemed almost second nature to order a negroni and stare into the middle distance, as if directed by Fellini himself.
Starters come and go like the support acts at a blockbuster pop concert, perfectly enjoyable but serving mainly to build the anticipation for the main event. My companion goes for a delicately oil-drizzled slice of summer in the panzanella while I settle on gently grilled succulent slices of octopus paired with nduja.
Onto the main event then. In truth choosing just two of the fresh pasta dishes on the menu is a real struggle. The dish of the moment, cacio e pepe catches the eye of course, while we hear great things from the table next to us about the paccheri, paired with guanciale and pecorino.
Eventually we settle on the tagliarine with clams, samphire, chilli and garlic as well as the pappardelle with shin of beef ragu, promising to swap halfway through - a promise that goes unfulfilled.
The tagliarine exudes Fat Tony’s simple charm - fresh, zingy and all-together too tasty for sharing. The clams are the perfect accompaniment for a hot summer’s evening, juicy but not too rich, while the distinctive flavour of the samphire is amplified by a judicious use of seasoning.
My paper-thin ribbons of perfectly al dente pappardelle are lovingly coated in the shin of Longhorn beef. This cut is a great choice for pappardelle as once slow cooked the meat has real depth of flavour, clinging to the pasta with molten fat that enriches the ragù’s decadent sauce.
As with any good italian meal there is always room for dessert though and together we finally do share something - the chocolate torta, a delectably rich denouement to the evening’s fare.
It’s impossible to recommend the dining experience enough, in short, Fat Tony’s should be on every discerning London foodie’s list. Classic Italian cooking with minimal ingredients at very reasonable prices.
Fat Tony’s will remain in residence indefinitely at Bar Termini Centrale, 31 Duke Street, Marylebone, London, W1U 1LG. Open Tuesday to Saturday 12-3pm & 5-9pm.
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published
-
La Zebra review: beach chic, perfect tacos and secret cenotes
The Week Recommends Enjoy a stylish stay in Mexico at this family-friendly beach hotel and restaurant
By William Leigh Published
-
10 museum exhibitions to see this winter
The Week Recommends The Roman Empire, Ukrainian modernism and early Buddhist art are all covered
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published