Jeanne Damas interview: the Rouje founder talks ‘French girl style’

Jeanne Damas is the Parisian internet sensation-turned-fashion entrepreneur whose label Rouje boasts just less than one million Instagram followers and is worn by a coterie of international “cool girls”, among them Elle Fanning, Selena Gomez, Margot Robbie and Léa Seydoux.

The former model, who also has 1.5m Insta followers under her own name, originally gained exposure from her original Tumblr account, which stood as a personal scrapbook of quintessential Parisian style helped along by her own stylish je ne sais quoi, a rarefied blend of sultriness, self-possession and feminine mystique. Long before Julia Fox claimed to be her own muse, Damas had established herself as an influencer in the true sense of the word, using her discerning eye to inspire others through her chic yet slightly undone Parisian style.

Perhaps she engineered the hype, or perhaps she was simply immersed in the creative moment – whatever her intention, Damas became an “It Girl” at the age of 17 and was snapped up by IMG Models. But Damas had ambitions to shine further than the lit up square of social media. In 2016, she founded Rouje, launching a small collection of floral dresses and timeless classics with a retro twist. In a nutshell, these were the things she wanted to wear in her various “roles”, as a party girl, a fashion setter and a girl about town. Among her first creations, was her now signature Gabin wrap dress (this is the one worn by Margot Robbie at a press junket for Mary Queen Of Scots in 2018) which became an instant hit and is still available in various patterns.

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Capitalising on the popularity of this perfect silhouette, cut to flatter all figures, she focused on well-crafted wardrobe staples that have become synonymous with a certain Parisian uniform – these include the Columbo trench, the slightly flared Belleville jeans, the Mylene striped knit and the Gio scooped neck top. You could argue that these are not breakthrough designs, but Damas has always understood the power of presentation and especially those little styling details that make all the difference when it comes to standing out, from the turn of a cuff to an upright collar, always mixed with an ineffable sense of louche modernity.

Damas has keenly grown her business, moving into new territory (sometimes literally) with every new year that passes. In 2018, she unveiled her beauty line Les Filles de Rouje, followed by a pop-up in Los Angeles in 2019, which firmly established her in the minds of young hip Californian shoppers as a purveyor of easy glamour.

Things got a lot bigger and bolder from there. Last year, she showcased a fully upcycled collection, launched her label in Hong Kong and Singapore with concept store Rue Madame, and debuted her first skincare range. In addition to this, the entrepreneur has just announced plans to open physical stores in New York and London – the latter will open temporarily in Mayfair this April followed by a larger permanent store in the city.

‘The modern Parisian woman shouldn’t be pigeonholed’

Ahead of this exciting addition to London’s retail landscape, TheWeek.co.uk spoke to Damas about her journey to the top and her definition of so-called “French girl style”. Plus she reveals some of her own favourite places to eat and shop in the French capital.

How did you fall in love with fashion?

My ideas about fashion were formed at an early age. Along with my father, my mother managed a restaurant in Paris and was considered a bit of a tastemaker. She was always invited to exclusive fashion events and press sample sales, so her wardrobe was full of bargain finds from Jean Paul Gaultier, Manolo Blahnik, Issey Miyake and the like. You could say she was a very modern sort of power dresser, in touch with her feminine side, strong and determined, working in a business that required grit and good business acumen. Sometimes her outfits were sexy, sometimes they were coquettish and playful, other times still, they were sharper and stricter – she just did as she pleased which I think made me understand the synergy between dressing and self-confidence.

Another big influence was – and still is – the fashion designer Nathalie Dumeix who had her studio next to my parents’ restaurant. I was always kicking about there when I was a teenager. You know, when you grow up in a restaurant, you’re a social animal by nature. You get to know the businesses and people around you, so Paris, at least for me as a kid, was all about community, it had a village-like feel. So there I stuck in my spare time, watching Nathalie pattern cut and drape her creations, making her sur-mesure collections the artisanal way, which helped me to appreciate an artfulness around the ritual of dressing.

People often refer to your label as ‘Parisian chic’, how do you feel about it?

I don’t find the term offensive or derogatory per se, but historically speaking, it’s a rigid definition that has presented quite a narrow view – often used to describe a certain aesthetic or physical look that doesn’t embrace diversity. The modern Parisian woman is not one thing and she shouldn’t be pigeonholed. I think what I try to champion is a joy and spirit around dressing that is natural, comfortable and uncomplicated, and that is perhaps where the definition should go, assigned to a Parisian attitude rather than a set of beauty ideals. We also have a huge mix of styles here in the Rouje studio and that makes for a great melting pot of ideas. For example, [head designer] Lou Menais has a real eye for 90s fashion, which adds its own freshness to collections. I sign off every season, but each one is a mix of influences.

Are you influenced by other designers?

French fashion is so exciting right now! I think that building a strong brand identity is as much about looking and appreciating what’s out there, as it is focusing on your own DNA. Being inspired – rather than being directly influenced by my peers – sparks creativity. For example, Vaillant Studio [founded by former ballerina Alice Vaillant in 2020] is a breath of fresh air with its draped, deconstructed pieces. My friend, Emma Reynaud, is doing great things with her sustainable brand Marcia, known for its sexy body-hugging silhouettes which feels fresh for Paris, typically more conservative when it comes to party-wear than say London and New York. There’s also the designer Nix Lecourt Mansion, famous for her corsetry looks... all are very different to the Rouje proposition, but together, as female designers and entrepreneurs, we’re building on a certain momentum that feels free and exciting. I feel that from a male design perspective, often there’s too much focus on the “fantasy woman”. These designers are coming at it from a personal place and that’s empowering.

Have you changed your style now that you’re a busy mum?

To be honest, not really. Although I do now wear trainers. I never did before, but I got used to the comfort when I was heavily pregnant! I don’t actually want to ever stop wearing my dresses, white outfits and stilettos – I have a glamorous mother who was always very hands on, to thank for that.

How do you design your collections?

It’s a messy process, but it works. I recently saw a Pina Bausch piece [at the Paris Opera Ballet] and I loved all the dancers’ dresses, cut from high gloss satin, which I’ve incorporated into next winter’s collection. Sometimes my influences are more abstract, drawn from a piece of music or kindled by a certain mood. Last September, I was in New York for Fashion Week and the experience was really impactful. I noticed more girls in sheer clothing and I loved it. It’s something you don’t see very often in Paris, so why not bring it here? So our Summer 23 collection will be gauzier… not crazy transparent, but “French” transparent, so a little more subtle.

Do you have a favourite social media account yourself?

Not a person, but a place! I love Charleston Farmhouse (@charlestontrust) in East Sussex, home of the Bloomsbury Set. For interiors, it’s my go-to place full of beautiful patterns and details, along with artfully arranged objects.

Do you have a favourite restaurant?

In Paris, my favourite haunt is Clamato (on Rue de Charonne). In London, it’s Cépage[s], a lovely little wine bistro in Notting Hill.

Where do you like to treasure-hunt?

Les Puces de Saint-Ouen (the famous Paris flea market) is amazing for little silk tops from the 1930s and 1940s. I also love Thanx God I’m a V.I.P. – a luxury vintage shop in the 10th arrondissement that’s a Parisian institution. You can get everything from rare couture pieces to vintage Hermès scarves.

Best baby bag?

I don’t use a baby bag – I’m not a fan! However, I did design a large shoulder bag crafted from suede – appropriately called Le Big Bag, which is great for carrying all those nappies and my essential Les Filles en Rouje make-up.

What is you own can’t-live-without Rouje piece?

I have a favourite saying when it comes to my favourite fashion look – “un jean et un rouge a levres” – because a good pair of jeans and a sweep of amazing lipstick is instant glamour. The jeans have to be the classic Jeanne!

Do you have a favourite jewellery piece?

I used to wear a lot of yellow gold, but I’ve fallen back in love with silver and especially my hoop earrings by Sophie Buhai who’s based in downtown Los Angeles. They have a lovely swing to them.

For more information see rouje.com