Lisboeta restaurant review: a ‘love letter to Lisbon’ in the heart of Fitzrovia
Portuguese chef Nuno Mendes’s latest restaurant concept is an ode to his home country
Since the pandemic, thousands of Brits have traded pie and mash for pastel de natas, swapping their life in the UK for a stint in Portugal, the European capital of remote working. But for those of us who are contractually tied to our Blighty-based desks, openings like Lisboeta are – thankfully – bringing Portugal to us (at least via our tastebuds).
The brainchild of Lisbon-born chef Nuno Mendes, whose CV includes turns at Bacchus in Hoxton, Viajante in Bethnal Green, Maos in Shoreditch and the Chiltern Firehouse, the fancy celeb hangout in Marylebone, the much-hyped Lisboeta opened its doors in March 2022.
The space
Located in a smart, three-storey townhouse in the heart of restaurant-land (Charlotte Street in Fitzrovia), Lisboeta’s warmly lit interior, which features light wood and an earthy palate, provides a casual, welcoming feel. A crowded gallery wall on the upper floor reminds me of the RA’s Summer Exhibition and adds a welcome burst of colour, while the lengthy limestone bar on the ground level is the perfect place to throw back a white port and tonic.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
The effect is reminiscent of the relaxed style and atmosphere of Lisbon’s many acclaimed restaurants, and is just one of the many ways that Lisboeta is, at least in Mendes’s own words, a “love letter to Lisbon”.
I’m seated on the first floor, by the gallery wall and a large sash window, and although every table here is occupied I can’t help but feel some “fomo” at not being part of the hubbub downstairs. I make a mental note to request a bar stool on my next visit.
Eating and drinking
The food menu is split into three sections: snacks, charcuterie & cheese; petiscos (Portuguese-style small plates designed to share); and tachos & travessas (larger pots and platters). For a table of two, a recommended order is two items from the snack section, two or three small plates, and one pot/platter to share – and then dessert, of course.
As we decide what to order, my friend and I nibble on the “couvert” (a play on the carby cover charge often included on the bill in traditional European restaurants). Here, Coombeshead farm bread is served with a dish of olive oil and another of whipped pork lard “unto” – a millennial pink pâté which I could have easily eaten unaccompanied with a spoon, had I not been in a fancy restaurant. The dip is delightfully smooth and smokey, but a rather small portion for two people sharing.
For our petiscos, we opt for the cured mackerel on toast, which, along with roasted green peppers and white onion, adorns two slender eggy soldier-shaped slices of buttery toast. This dish might be my highlight, with the sharp mackerel perfectly complemented by the sweet onion – and it’s gone far too soon in two crunchy, crumby bites.
A warm vindalho empanada is up next – a Goan-inspired pork pie that is far less spicy than its name suggests. The size of a lychee, this crumbly snack is not suitable for sharing (although it would make a perfect canapé at a wedding). At £4 a mouthful, this dish is far from good value for money – but the delicious flaky, buttery pastry and gentle yet flavourful spices make it a Lisboeta must-order.
Another highlight is the aged bavette steak which comes perfectly pink and thinly sliced and is served with broccoli and an onion, garlic and pork “pica pau” sauce. On the strange side, but by no means a poor choice, is the “Bacalhau à Brás” – a beige mess of confit cod and onions buried under a mass of crunchy fried matchstick-like potatoes. It sounds like it shouldn’t work, but it does.
The cured amberjack from the Azores islands, served with orange and onion, is not to my taste, as I find the orange overpowers the flavour of the thin slices of fish. Disappointing, too, is the “Arroz de Marisco” – a heavy red prawn and seafood rice dish served in a kitchen saucepan. The heads of the prawns are brought over separately by our charming Portuguese waiter, who recommends we squeeze the juices over the rice. We enthusiastically oblige and expectations are high as we take our first bite. Neither of us expects the sauce to taste so sweet, so Ketchup-like, and we don’t make much of a dent in the pan.
Lisboeta’s showstopper dessert, Mendes’ take on a classic pastel de nata, which features pork fat custard and port wine caramel, has sadly sold out, but we do sample the other three desserts on the menu. By far the best is the “Bolo de Bolacha”, a traditional no-bake Portuguese biscuit cake with buttercream, coffee and ice cream. It’s the perfect way to bring my energy – or sugar – levels back up after my rich, carb-heavy main courses.
Verdict
For traditional Portuguese dishes (but sadly with central London, rather than Lisbon, prices), Lisboeta is an authentic and atmospheric spot. While my experience was definitely more hit than miss, there were a couple of dishes that weren’t to my taste – but that definitely wouldn’t stop me from returning.
Lisboeta, 30 Charlotte Street, London W1T 2NG
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Kate Samuelson is the newsletter editor, global. She is also a regular guest on award-winning podcast The Week Unwrapped, where she often brings stories with a women’s rights angle. Kate’s career as a journalist began on the MailOnline graduate training scheme, which involved stints as a reporter at the South West News Service’s office in Cambridge and the Liverpool Echo. She moved from MailOnline to Time magazine’s satellite office in London, where she covered current affairs and culture for both the print mag and website. Before joining The Week, Kate worked as the senior stories and content gathering specialist at the global women’s charity ActionAid UK, where she led the planning and delivery of all content gathering trips, from Bangladesh to Brazil. She is passionate about women’s rights and using her skills as a journalist to highlight underrepresented communities.
Alongside her staff roles, Kate has written for various magazines and newspapers including Stylist, Metro.co.uk, The Guardian and the i news site. She is also the founder and editor of Cheapskate London, an award-winning weekly newsletter that curates the best free events with the aim of making the capital more accessible.
-
Nigeria's worsening rate of maternal mortality
Under the radar Economic crisis is making hospitals unaffordable, with women increasingly not receiving the care they need
By Harriet Marsden, The Week UK Published
-
'Elevating Earth Day into a national holiday is not radical — it's practical'
Instant Opinion Opinion, comment and editorials of the day
By Harold Maass, The Week US Published
-
UAW scores historic win in South at VW plant
Speed Read Volkswagen workers in Tennessee have voted to join the United Auto Workers union
By Peter Weber, The Week US Published
-
Three Chimneys restaurant and The House Over-By review: Skye's sumptuous rural hideaway
The Week Recommends The award-winning restaurant with rooms is well worth battling the elements to reach
By Jamie Timson, The Week UK Published
-
The Westbury Hotel review: stunning suites in charming Dublin
The Week Recommends This hotel is the perfect spot to while away a weekend in Ireland's capital
By Kaye O'Doherty Published
-
Drama movies 2024: new films out this year
In Depth Latest reviews include The Boys in the Boat, One Life and Tchaikovsky's Wife
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Best new hotels and places to stay in 2024
The Week Recommends Featuring stylish island resorts, historical properties and wilderness retreats
By The Week UK Last updated
-
Albums of the year: best music of 2023
The Week Recommends A look back at the best pop, rap, jazz, dance, classical and rock releases
By The Week UK Published
-
Savoy Grill by Gordon Ramsay review: an institution reinvented
The Week Recommends Traditions are maintained and the tweaks are clever and modern
By Neil Davey Published
-
Tulum: a Mexican beach town of 'two halves'
The Week Recommends With the 'pueblo' and 'Zona Hotelera', Tulum is home to great hotels, restaurants and beach clubs
By William Leigh Published
-
La Zebra review: beach chic, perfect tacos and secret cenotes
The Week Recommends Enjoy a stylish stay in Mexico at this family-friendly beach hotel and restaurant
By William Leigh Published