Bittescombe Lodge review: an idyllic fantasy in rural Somerset

A fire sits roaring in the intimate entrance hall of Bittescombe Lodge, an invitation into what will become home for at least the next two nights. At once impressive and comforting, it’s an immediate indicator of the warmth that radiates throughout every aspect of the 400-acre estate.

Part of the Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes collection, in partnership with StayOne, there’s a quiet elegance to the décor and a light touch over practical aspects like service and quality, while also tapping into the endearing idiosyncrasies and simplicity of rural Somerset. This is a place of relaxation and decadence that also encourages exploration of the stunning countryside, walking through mud in Hunter wellies and a Barbour jacket.

Why stay here?

The main reception area epitomises the ease with which Bittescombe Lodge fuses opulence and homely comfort. It’s a vast space as one might expect from two renovated barns, but a hearty fire and pockets of plush green leather sofas and reading chairs provide cosy places to play board games that are dotted around with the same frequency as Hermès blankets. Or sit with a book and enjoy a drink from the fully-stocked bar.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

There are echoes of a French chalet in the wooden walls and rustic tables which complement the grand spaces by ensuring everything feels luxurious without ostentation. Whispers of the deer park, which sits on the estate, and the local Somerset culture are also felt throughout, with two proud stags mounted on either end of the impressive dining room where breakfast and dinner is served. But these notes were subtle, and we were assured that both stags had lived long, full lives; one in France and the other in Bittescombe’s own deer park.

Only available to rent in its entirety, Bittescombe Lodge feels like home for the length of your stay and there’s genuine warmth at every turn. This is evident in the attentive and personal service, which is where the influence of the Mandarin Oriental brand is most obvious. There is no pretension, and by the time bags are packed and Range Rovers are transferring your party back to the station, everyone will be on a first-name basis.

The rooms

Tucked away behind a hidden doorway are ten bedrooms, each of which has been named according to its distinct personality. The Heights is particularly impressive with a mezzanine where a standing round top bath sits, overlooking the perfectly made bed below. For eccentric tastes, one room is decorated head to toe with china ducks, or for lovers of bright colours, another has a geometric yellow backboard above the bed, reminiscent of a honeycomb.

There are no missing details; each room has sumptuous pillows and mattresses for a restful night’s sleep, a Nespresso machine for coffee in bed, a giant diffuser which matches the individual colour scheme, and personalisation on both the pillowcases and hot water bottle covers which are packed away at the end of the stay to take home as a memento.

Eating and drinking

The star of the culinary show is the estate’s own produce. Deer, which are humanely culled to prevent overgrazing and starvation, are repurposed at the expert hands of Michelin-starred chef, Richard Picard-Edwards, into delectable dishes like roast loin, sausage and ragu of venison with buttered turnips and chocolate. For non-meat eaters, the seasonal and fresh vegetables from the garden and honey straight from Bittescombe’s own beehive have the same standout effect. Each menu is artfully designed with the current party in mind, taking preferences and allergies into account with faultless attention to detail.

This translates effortlessly into the drinks, which are free flowing and high quality. The fully stocked bar includes a woody Saint Veran, local Somerset gin for a generously poured long drink and any cocktail that comes to mind from the dirtiest of martinis to Bloody Marys. The consideration is just as flawless with non-alcoholic drinks. Whatever the order, the staff will remember and ensure you always have the option of a top up or refill.

What to do

Head outside to truly experience everything that Bittescombe Lodge has to offer. Whether a beginner or experienced shooter, safely try clay pigeon shooting with the guidance of experienced locals and staff and then take a walk with the estate manager through the deer park to see Bittescombe’s herds and leave knowing more about deer than you ever thought possible. Horse riding and polo can also be arranged as well as fishing, paddleboarding and kayaking.

Make the most of the on-site padel and badminton courts and gym equipment for activities that are mud and nature free or relax by swimming a few lengths of the pool, detoxing in the sauna or arranging a massage with the in-house therapist who’s a wonder at releasing tight knots and tension in as little as 20 minutes.

The verdict

Just a three-hour drive from Heathrow or a mere 1hr 45mins train journey from London Paddington to Taunton station, nine miles away, Bittescombe Lodge feels like entering an idyllic fantasy. The space itself is thoughtfully designed and presented; the service is outstanding but at no point tips over towards uncomfortable attentiveness.

A home from home, it’s rural and rustic while also being dramatic and polished. It’s an experience that is difficult to pinpoint because at its heart, it moulds together two qualities that don’t, superficially, make sense. The luxury and simplicity of Bittescombe Lodge is its superpower and it really needs to be experienced to be fully understood.

Olivia Perl was a guest of Mandarin Oriental Exclusive Homes. Prices to rent Bittescombe Lodge in its entirety range from £10,440 to £15,410 per night. Minimum stay two nights. Bittescombe Lodge & Deer Park, Wiveliscombe, Somerset TA4 2QL; mandarinoriental.com