Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel review: five-star views on the Côte d’Azur

It’s easy to get taken in by the aura of the Côte d’Azur, but a visit to Nice proved that there’s so much more to it than the high life. Discover how the biggest city on the French Riviera contains a wealth of unique culture and a well preserved history behind the chic veneer.

I stayed at the Anantara Plaza, the latest addition to Nice’s repertoire of high end hotels, but one of relatively few holding a five-star rating. It was a surprisingly personal experience for a chain hotel, even at the luxury end, and I have no doubts that it will soon be a landmark destination for aspirational visitors and the Niçoise elite, if it isn’t already.

Why stay here?

The Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel occupies a fine, honey-coloured building in the Belle Époque style on what was formerly the banks of a river that flowed through the city. It has since been landscaped into lush gardens and water features, and represents just one one of Nice’s many curiosities. Major cities usually owe a lot to their rivers, but Nice’s progressive local government saw it as an unusual opportunity to improve the core of the city, and few would argue that it has.

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The views from the terrace of my south-facing suite were majestic. Plenty of the world’s finest hotels could only dream of offering their guests such a privileged viewpoint from the comfort of their rooms, but Anantara Plaza proudly can. It’s a shame my suite’s digital kettle took the meaning of “high end” a little too far though, and left me feeling like a luddite.

Eating and drinking

Les Collonades

Just behind the lobby is Les Collanades, a softly lit Art Deco room with soaring ceilings where I sat down to a Niçoise interpretation of the British high tea. Various aesthetically pleasing things, both sweet and savoury, arrived on a gold wheel, which would be slightly gimmicky had it not been adorned with the ingenious creations of the hotel’s chef de patisserie, Guillaume Bosquet.

You may find one of his signature illusion pastries waiting for you in your room. Mine was a convincing replica of a pebble from the nearby Baie des Anges, which belied a velvety passionfruit mousse. The French way with desserts never ceases to amaze me, but more on that later.

Rooftop Bar SEEN

My advice would be to save Les Collenades for a rare overcast day and head straight to the rooftop terrace bar SEEN, the centre of the hotel’s social and gastronomic experience. An early bite to eat from the pitch perfect breakfast menu in the open air was arguably the highlight of every day during my time there.

Exactly like it did from my suite, the view from SEEN’s terrace just kept giving. Glance to your left to the Old Town of Nice, now a world heritage site, and spot the waterfall tucked away in the steep hills overlooking it. To your right, that endless horizon of calming blue water. It’s a good reason not to sleep in.

As the sun sets and the mood inside SEEN gently ascends into something more upbeat, it’s probably time to try out its bespoke cocktail menu. The ingredients of each are mostly concealed to encourage drinkers to leave their comfort zone, which I duly did.

A bracing “Socca Sour” is a good place to start, inspired by the famous chickpea flour crepe that’s ubiquitous around Nice. However, I kept returning to “Le Nougatier”, a close relative of the Old Fashioned, which was mixed to bittersweet perfection.

SEEN by Olivier

Whether it’s at lunch on that blissful terrace or inside when the lights are dimmed and music filters through the room, dining at Anantara Plaza is quite the experience. But don’t visit expecting classical Niçoise fare.

The signature restaurant, SEEN by Olivier, is the vision of the distinguished Lisbon-born chef, Olivier da Costa, overseen by the hotel’s executive chef, Denis Garmand. I was fortunate to meet both and could sense their ambition to break free of gastronomic labels and give their guests something they couldn’t easily find elsewhere.

But it started on more familiar ground at lunch with a “piscine”, which is how the Niçoise like to drink their rosé on warm afternoons: filled to the brim with both ice and wine. It didn’t take much convincing for me to embrace this custom. But if you want the most authentic apéritif then slowly sip a “pastis”, diluted with water and a few cubes of ice. A shot of Grenadine will make it a “tomate”. You’ll fit right in with either.

Lobster features heavily on the menu. During my stay I had it grilled; in dainty rolls and in a giant shareable platter with spaghetti, which almost needed two people to carry it from the kitchen. It featured some of the meatiest crustacean that’s ever met a fork that I’ve held, but probably didn’t need the slightly under-seasoned tangle of pasta. I would say the “wow factor” compensated for that, but there were no shortage of those.

That couldn’t be better exemplified by the dazzling platter of sushi, sashimi and maki that started dinner one evening. Garnished with gold leaf, caviar and truffle, it could have doubled as an art piece. Other equally eye-catching plates included the standout sea bream carpaccio, finished with rocket leaves, radish and locally picked flowers. A vibrant and colourful beetroot carpaccio with macadamia crumbs and feta was an inspired vegetarian option too.

Other highlights from the all-day menu included the “catch of the day ceviche tacos”, which were emphatically flavoursome on so many levels. A rich and silky linguine with truffle and parmesan sauce was everything I hoped it would be, which the carnivores told me paired very well with thin and succulent wagyu beef and chimichurri.

Back to that French way with desserts. Whether you’re in Les Collenades or SEEN, expect treats that are worth the calories. The yuzu cheesecake and guava soufflé were fine examples of the fusion approach that embodies the all day menu, but there’s a place for the traditional too.

A miniature tarte au citron made me wince with pleasure, but the best dessert was a pavlova in a specially designed dinner at the hotel’s Presidential Suite, which is worth booking if available (not least to enjoy the vast personal terrace for one evening). It achieved the kind of textural alchemy that only the French pastry masters can with just sugar, egg whites and fruit.

Things to see and do in Nice

As you would expect, Nice’s Old Town is an unspoiled web of narrow streets, shuttered windows and tempting brasserie terraces. All fine reasons for a stroll, but the morning market along the Cours Saleya is an essential slice of Niçoise life that you won’t want to miss. Artist Henri Matisse, once a resident of Nice, lived in a splendid building overlooking the market at the far east end.

Make sure you try the extremely moreish pissaladière (Niçoise onion and olive tart) from one of the many street sellers, and perhaps pick up a sunny bunch of mimosa to take home too. Your home will be grateful.

Just outside the city, Château de Crémat is a vineyard, venue and a museum of sorts that annually produces two superb wines exclusively for Anantara Plaza. A short trip there is worth it just to taste – and take home – a much wider range of the excellent cuvées, but fashionistas may enjoy the Chateau’s link to Coco Chanel. The furniture from her legendary residence at the Ritz Paris is on display in one of the rooms, and you won’t miss the intriguing presence of the famous “CC” logo too.

The verdict

Nice is an effortlessly cool place to go, and perhaps unlike more famous spots on the Côte d’Azur, is a city that rewards any visitor looking for more than luxury shopping and premium Instagram content. But if some luxury is an essential ingredient to your experience, like it was for mine, then the Anantara Plaza won’t disappoint. Even if it’s just for one the finest views you’ll ever likely to wake up to each morning.

Dominic Kocur was a guest of Anantara Plaza Nice Hotel. Rates start from €350 (£308) for a deluxe city view room including breakfast for two people; anantara.com