The Baptist Grill review: sustenance for the soul

With its sacred architecture and classically inspired menu, this is a restaurant built on divine foundations

190423-baptist-grill-top.jpg

Part of the pleasure of eating in new restaurants is tasting life on the culinary frontier. It’s fun to dip a fork into the melting pot, skewer a clutch of obscurely foraged ingredients and lay them out on whatever flotsam or jetsam has been pressed into service as crockery.

But all that restless invention can lead to a craving for something simpler. Or perhaps not simple, because The Baptist Grill, at L’Oscar hotel, in Holborn, depends on the investment of great expertise and effort - but it’s all in the service of the gloriously, comfortingly familiar.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE
https://cdn.mos.cms.futurecdn.net/flexiimages/jacafc5zvs1692883516.jpg

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up
To continue reading this article...
Continue reading this article and get limited website access each month.
Get unlimited website access, exclusive newsletters plus much more.
Cancel or pause at any time.
Already a subscriber to The Week?
Not sure which email you used for your subscription? Contact us

Holden Frith is The Week’s digital director. He also makes regular appearances on “The Week Unwrapped”, speaking about subjects as diverse as vaccine development and bionic bomb-sniffing locusts. He joined The Week in 2013, spending five years editing the magazine’s website. Before that, he was deputy digital editor at The Sunday Times. He has also been TheTimes.co.uk’s technology editor and the launch editor of Wired magazine’s UK website. Holden has worked in journalism for nearly two decades, having started his professional career while completing an English literature degree at Cambridge University. He followed that with a master’s degree in journalism from Northwestern University in Chicago. A keen photographer, he also writes travel features whenever he gets the chance.