In Review

London’s best Indian restaurants for fine dining

Where to find the best high-end curry in the capital

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Gone are the days when, for British diners, Indian food meant generic curry in a foil tin and a paper bag full of greasy poppadoms. Now an increasingly vibrant restaurant scene is putting the spotlight on the country’s huge variety of regional traditions - and the innovative chefs at the cutting edge of Indian cooking.

 

Kahani

A short walk from Sloane Square, Kahani (full review) is a highly polished example of the modern British-Indian restaurant. A menu that marries Michelin-tinged ingredients with the more powerful flavour profile of the sub-continent - think steak kebabs in cumin and truffle oil or guinea fowl tikka - is complemented by an adventurous cocktail menu. Vegans, vegetarians and carnivores are all equally well provided for, and many of the dishes can be served as small sharing plates or traditional starters and main courses. A six-course tasting menu is available for £70.

Don’t miss: tandoori broccoli with honey, nigella seeds and tempered yoghurt (£14)

Kahani, 1 Wilbraham Pl, SW1: kahanidining.com

 
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Flora Indica

Named after a field guide to Indian plantlife written by two 19th-century Scots, Flora Indica (full review) promises to take diners on a journey around the country - and through time. Richly furnished in Harris tweed and assorted Victoriana, this is the ideal setting for a menu rich in hearty classics that span the subcontinent. Kashmiri rogan josh, made with Suffolk lamb shoulder, is a prime example, as is the coconut-infused monkfish and king prawn malai curry, hailing from the other side of the country. A selection of set menus are available for theatre-goers and groups, as is a five-course tasting menu (£47) and a conventional a la carte selection.

Don’t miss: corn-fed bergamot lemon chicken tikka and makhani sauce (£14)

Flora Indica, 242 Old Brompton Rd, SW5: flora-indica.com

 

Babur

Away from the restaurant-rich streets of central London, Babur, in Honor Oak Park, is well worth the ten-minute train journey from London Bridge. There’s no missing this southeastern stalwart: it has a life-sized sculpted tiger shimmying down the side of the building. Inside, the food is an alluring mix of regulars (try the organic chicken chop, from Suffolk via Kolkata, steeped in mace and green cardamom and served with a kalonji-seed paratha), and a monthly selection of specials, dedicated to a specific regional cuisine. The restaurant is evangelical about pairing wine with Indian food - each dish has a recommendation printed on the menu.

Don’t miss: venison hunter curry, slow cooked with sweet potato, dark spices and tamarind (£19.25)

Babur, 119 Brockley Rise, SE23: babur.info

 

Indian Accent

Don’t be deceived by its unassuming frontage (no tigers here), this is a restaurant of extravagant skill and ambition. Given free rein to reinvent the classics, Indian Accent’s kitchen (full review) likes to kick off proceedings with a provocative amuse bouche - a bite of blue cheese-filled naan, for example, with a shot of pumpkin and coconut soup - and follow it up with the Instagram-worthy tadka hamachi (a sashimi-like dish of raw tuna, avocado and Calcutta chutney, simultaneously subtle and satisfying). The restaurant offers express menus for before or after a trip to the theatre, as well as a la carte and tasting menus (£85 for seven courses - or £80 for the vegan version).

Don’t miss: ghee roast lamb - an Indian take on peking duck with roti pancakes and chutney (£28)

Indian Accent, 16 Albemarle St, W1: indianaccent.com

 

Bombay Bustle

A short walk north from Indian Accent is Bombay Bustle, a restaurant that lives up to its name with a convivial atmosphere in its two compact dining rooms, decorated to evoke India’s glorious railway network. An eclectic menu offers small plates, biryanis, main-sized curries and a selection from the tandoor - served with an emphasis on sharing. Seafood is particularly well represented, but vegetarians have plenty to choose from too. Brunches, express menus and tasting menus (six courses for £65) offer something for every occasion.

Don’t miss: adipoli prawns with garlic, curry leaves and fresh turmeric (£14)

Bombay Bustle, 29 Maddox St, W1: bombaybustle.com

 

Kutir

Small but perfectly formed, Kutir (full review) occupies an attractive Chelsea townhouse that was previously home to Vineet Basai’s excellent but short-lived VBL (and which is just around the corner from Kahani). While a little less formal than its tasting-menu-only predecessor, Kutir retains a sense of quiet grandeur. A la carte highlights include an unusually light chicken tikka masala, and the aloo tikki, a crisp potato cake that comes with tamarind and mint chutney. And for those who want the full experience, the seven-course “Expeditions” menu is £70 for vegetarians or £65 with seafood.

Don’t miss: naan with masala scrambled quail eggs and truffle shavings (£10, small plate)

Kutir, 10 Lincoln St, SW3: kutir.co.uk

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