Opening a "capacious, fine-dining, Michelin-striving restaurant" in an old nightclub on the fringes of Essex definitely "has elements of crazy", says Grace Dent in the London Evening Standard.
The reason for coming to this "little gem of clenched-fist gentility is the chef, Ben Murphy, who is nodded at as one of the coming names of modern British cuisine", says AA Gill in The Sunday Times.
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