Pomona’s restaurant review: California dreaming in Notting Hill

California. It’s the place to “live the dream” don’t you know? Well, that’s what the US state’s tourism board would have you believe with its most recent advertising campaign.

You know the ads, the ones where Hollywood stars, sports legends and ridiculously good-looking people run through the many reasons why you should visit their “golden state”.

The skateboarding, convertible-driving, wine-drinking, sunbathing lifestyle looks almost too good to be true. But after a winter battling the Beast from the East, the best of the west (coast), might seems like a daydream worth indulging.

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With San Francisco and San Diego an 11-hour flight from the UK, any Brits who want a taste of California but without the hassle of a red-eye flight, should head straight to W2 and visit Pomona’s.

This Notting Hill restaurant and bar can’t guarantee sunshine and beaches, but it can offer Cali vibes and a menu bursting with fresh flavours.

Formerly The Commander pub, the property has transformed itself into a light, airy eatery that would not be out of place in Santa Cruz or Santa Barbara.

While the inside is a nice bright space, it’s a pity we weren't able to enjoy Pomona’s summer terrace on our visit. Open from May to September, the terrace will be a perfect spot for breakfast, brunch or a drink from the specially curated cocktail and smoothie menu.

Under the new stewardship of executive head chef Wolfe Conyngham, who joined in January, Pomona’s has a selection of new menus throughout the day.

The restaurant is making a name for itself as a brunch destination, but we visited in the evening to get a taste of Chef Conyngham’s new spring menu.

Accompanied by a sauvignon blanc, we started with the soft shell crab and guacamole, followed by a new dish on the menu, octopus with courgette. The soft crab was exactly that. Beautifully cooked, the flavours of the crab were superbly paired by the guacamole side. The butternut squash with cavolo nero, cottage cheese and almonds is another highlight - and for the fitness-conscious, one of Pomona’s ‘healthy and light’ options.

One surprising inclusion on the spring menu is the wood pigeon with beetroot and pine nuts. It may sound like a winter warmer, but the meat was very light, allowing room for the beetroot to act as the star of the dish.

When we asked Chef Conyngham what his favourite dish on the menu was he was quick to point to the Iberico pork pluma with braised fennel and salsa verde. He was right too - the salsa adds a perfect piquancy to the superlative Spanish pork.

Our other main course was Welsh lamb rump with garden peas, pea shoots, goat curd and mint jus. Lamb is another meat that can feel too heavy when it is warm, but garden peas and pea shoots added a lightness to the dish that made sense of its inclusion.

When dreaming of California, one will often conjure crisp wines, fresh fruits and sea breezes, but Pomona’s is still based in rainy old London. And it’s ok to have a dessert when it is freezing cold outside... so we had two. The first was a lemon posset with homemade shortbread and the second a dark chocolate and salted caramel fondant with pistachio ice cream.

Salted caramel? Dark chocolate? Even the bronzed Californians in Malibu wouldn't be able to resist that.

Pomona’s, London W2, is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner from 8.30am-10pm Tuesday to Thursday; 8.30am-10.30pm on Fridays; 9am-10.30pm on Saturdays; and 9am-9pm on Sundays.